■K7? 






A 




LEW SYSTEM 





FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE 



AET AUB SCIEHCE «f GARMEMT CHTTIfflG, 



VOli ALJ. 11 IK 



\' ' I \mn mum ^^ *'^"^ 'mimH m i > v . 



-4^ 



BY 



A^TJC^USTUS KOCtl. 



ILLUSTI^A^ED BY 



K 1 F 1' I-; ]'•, N 




PL/VTES OF FrXKLY R.VflK,AVI^]f) DIAdHA^IS A?^l) P[(IIIRF.S, 

WITH Fl'LI. INSTRU(rrU)N8 KOH I)KAFTIN(V THE VARIOiyS STYLES OF COATS. 

VESTS ANT> PANTTS. 



POUdUKKFA'sl E. y. \ 
1 8 8 ;i . 






mtim 111 aiiE 



t) 



fi^l^i^^ 



FOR INSTRUCTION IN THE 



AET MB SCraCE o^ UMIWEIT CUTTIIG. 



FOR ALL 



Tlie Yarious Foni]s of tl^e ^umar] Body. 



BY 



^XJGMJSTXJS KOCH. 



IliLUSTI^ATED BY 



FIFTEEN 



■6 ioiict' /) 



PLATES OF FINELY ENGIUYED DIA(}KAMS AND EIGUEES, 

WITH FULL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING THE VARIOUS STYLES OF COATS, 

VESTS AND PANTS. 



POUGIIKEEPSIE, N. Y. : 

18 8 3. 






Entered accordinn- to Act of Congress in the year 1883, by 

AUGUSTUS KOCH, 

In the office of the LilMarum of Congress at Washington, D. C. 



'1 



Ji- 



^'^^^ 



This impoved volume, which is introduced by 
these few lines, is in reality the Second Edition 
of the Author" s celebrated System pulished in 
1876, then entitled " The Cutters' Centennial 
Guide,'' which is so extensively and successfully 
used in almost every State of the Union. 

This Volume, therefore, is intended to unfold 
the NEW DiscovEKiE'^ and imi'kovkmexts since 
then made, in as tinely illustrated fashion as the 
subject will permit or the Author can present it. 

That a new departure and radical changes are 
disseminated in the professional Art of Cutting, 
need not be argued at this time, for the present 
work will bear the scrutinizing eye of the candid 
artist, who will find unfolded to his untiring 
vision THE MOST SCIENTIFIC PiioiJLEM Bver devel- 
oped by any author of systems of Garment Cut- 
ting. 

In this Volume will be found the grand com- 
bination of the two great principles upon which 
true Garment Cutting is founded, which are 
Simplification and Accuracy ; and the ground 
PLAN underlying these principles comprises Ac- 
tual Measurement and Direct Application 
of the measures to the Draft as taken from the 
Body. 

The wonderful invention by the Author of the 
ONE GRAND NEW MEASURE called " Shoiilder 
Regulator," and its direct application to the 
draft as taken from the Body — in connection with 
tJiree other measures (Front, Back and Waist 



Balance,) which are all taken from one jjoint, 
— never fail, if correctly taken, to produce a 
well-fitting garment, and accomplish the good 
result for all the various forms of the human 
body. 

Tlie Work is original in all the general details 
introduced, both in the Description given, and in 
the accompanying fifteen Plates of Illustration. 

The TWO Figures show the different points 
and application of the tape-measure ; the Dia- 
grams the drafting ; and the Description ex- 
plains the whole in a clear and thorougli man- 
ner, so that any Cutter of ordinary talent can 
use the System at once, and with full success. 

And, furthermore, the Y'OUNG man who does 
not understand Cutting at all, can learn it easily 
from the instruction given in the book, without 
a personal instructor or teacher. 

The Author claims that he has brought out and 
developed, in condensed form, a true and re- 
liable WORK ON Garment Cutting, — as only 
STUDY' and experience can offer and produce. 

In conclusion, the Author advises all those 
who intend to study and practice these new 
principles to lay aside all prejudice and follow 
out the instruction as herein given ; and if you 
thus do, COMPLETE SUCCESS will follow, and you 
will become a hearty indorser of this valualile 
Work. 



G^XfJTION. 



To all whom it may concern : Notice is hereby given to all persons in whose handw 
a copy of this work may be placed, that the publisher is the sole proprietor and vender, according 
to the laws of the United States of America ; and any person or persons who attempt to publish, or 
have it published, in whole or in part, or teach others from the illustrations and instructions 
herein contained, will hold themselves liable to heavy penalties. And, further, it is understood 
that this work is not transferable to a third party without a written consent from the publisher, 
which consent will be attached to the work so transferred ; |and for any violation thereof, proceed- 
ings will be commenced at once against all such offenders. 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



F^P^f^aa^iCll^Ex FliMT^S 



IX K]:(iAED TO 



Measurement and Position of the Customer. 



JT[HE Measukement of Gakments is a subject 
-JL which brings before us an extensive sphere 
of important matters on which a large volume 
might be written ; but it is not my intention to 
do so. The only desii'e that I have is, to impress 
the important subject, which is so worthy of 
study and consideration, on the mind of the Cut- 
ter who may use this System. I do not mean by 
this (or even attempt to do so,) to instruct the 
skilful Artist wlio has had many years of practi- 
cal experience in the profession of Cutting, — he 
knows all this. It is, therefore, not this class of 
men which I try to instruct, but it is the young, 
inexperienced Cutter for whom the subject is in- 
tended. 

We tind many things in regard to measure- 
taking, which the Cutter may look upon as very 
trifling matters, — but nothing in relation to mea- 
surement is so trifling and insignificant as not to 
need full explanation. 

We will now begin, and show some of these 
trifling things, l)ut which are sufficient to produce 
misflts and alterations whereby hundreds of dol- 
lars may be lost evei-y year. 

The flrst one which we will mention is, talk- 
ing TO the customer while you are TAKIN(J 
HIS measures. 

Let it be understood between jou and your em- 
ployer, or whosoever takes down the measures, 
not to talk to the customer (if it can be avoided) 
while you are taking his measures. Nothing is 
more annoying to the Cutter and injurious to his 
work than this trifling matter. Now, should you 
want my reason for this, I will simply state : — 
when, talking is going on, the customer will twist 
and move about, and consequently will get out of 
his natural j^osition. 

The second hint is : that every Cutter, no mat- 
ter what system he may have, ox use, should 
have his regular fixed points on the body, from 
which the tape measure has to be applied ; and 
so long as these points are correct once, and hold 
good in all cases and forms of the body, and the 
measures from those points will produce the cor- 
rect draft, he should stick close to them, and not 
jump from one experiment to auotlier. AVe find 
many Cutters who are like grasshoppers, jumj)- 
ing from one point to another — experimenting 
in a different measurement for every coat — and 
are never successful in cutting. 



The third practical hint is : We should take 
all the i^riucipal measures which are necessary 
to produce a correct di'aft for the form of body 
— but beyond this, all the proof or check mea- 
sures should be avoided. Those measures will 
do more harm than good to the Cutter. 

Fourth : All the necessary measures should be 
taken without instrument, and with tajie only. 

It is a well known fact, that there are systems 
of garment cutting wherein an almost endless a- 
mount of measures have to betaken, and to pro- 
duce them the Cutter must use a measuring 
sqi^are or measuring machine in which the cus- 
tomer is placed, like a horse in harness. Now, 
this is not alone the most disagreeable thing for 
customer and Cutter, but it is also the worst 
thing ever invented, because more Idunders are 
made with this class of instruments than we can 
imagine. 

The fifth practical hint is: That all these 
measures which may l)e necessary for any one 
system should be taken correctly and with utmost 
care, so that they will give the actual amount 
which the body calls for ; and in not doing so, 
we find the cause why some cutters will get in 
trouble more or less, and then discard their Sys- 
tem and fly to a new one. Now this is a great 
mistake : — failure and trouble must occur with 
the best System, if a careless measurement is 
taken. 

It stands to reason that, should we make an 
error in the measurement, it is certain that the 
same error will be made in the draft. And, again, 
if we can expect a good fitting garment at all, it 
necessarily is because we have tli e correct mea- 
sure by which the good fitting garment is pro- 
duced. This is appliable to any one System 
which the Cutter may use. 

Sixth. To accomplish the good result, and to 
secure a correct measiirement, — The only safe and 
sure plan is, that all the measures should be taken 
over the Vest. No doubt some Cutters will say, 
' this is a very difficult matter to do.' Now every 
Cutter of experience must confess, that when the 
measures have to be taken over a bad-fitting Coat, 
it is the most difficult work that a cutter can un- 
dertake. If this is true, why, then,, should the 
measures taken over the Vest be more difficult 
than otherwise? It is certainly as easy, if not 
more so, as any other plan in existence. 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



The measurement over the Vest lias certain ad- 
vaiita.nes. Take, for instance, the Coat which is 
more or less wadded, yes, some, we must say, are 
stuffed out with wadding, — now, then, is it possi- 
ble for any one to ascertain the real amount 
which the Body actually calls for i while, on the 
other hand, by taking the measures over the 
Vest, nothing will interfere, and we will have 
just so much — no more, no less. 

Again : Supposing the customer is one-sided, 
one shouldei' lower than the other — it will not Ik- 
noticed when the coat is on, because the shoulder 
is raised iip with wadding so that it will appear 
level with the other. Now, if the customer does 
not caution the Cutter, he will discover the eiToi' 
when the garment is finished, and by the altera- 
tions whiidi must follow ; while, by taking the 
measures over the A'est, we have the whole fVn'm 
before us, and notliing will hide its defects from 
notice. These few remarks we deem sufficient 
to show the advantages of measui-ing without 
SQCARKand Coat. 

But there is another very imjiortant 2)oint that 
we must imi)ress upon the mind of every Cutter, 
which is of like imxiortance as the measurement 
itself, if not more so, — and this is: Before we 
can expect a correct measurement at all. if is ali- 
solutely necessary that the customer must stand 
in his 



NATURAL POSITION. 

We can say from ex2)erience, that in a majority 
of cases, where customers come to the Cutter to 
have their measures taken, we will tind very few 
stooping or disproportioned men ; e\ en tlie most 
stoojiing forms will stand straight, or nearly so. 
Now, should we establish our points and apply 
the tape measure to the foi'm in such an unnatu- 
ral positicm, it is impossible that the gaiment 
woulil lit when tlu-y stand in their natural shape. 
The cpiestion may ai-ise, how do we know if the 
custcmier is in his natural position; andif so, how 
can we avoid \t{ My answer to this cpiestion is, 
Take a ''quiet survey" of your customer as he 
enters your cutting room, and as he is looking at 
the fashion ]»late, oi' in any other way opportu- 
nity may off in- ; and by doing so, you can judge 
very nearly of the ligure you may have to clothe. 
Now, should he present himself to you in any 
other foi-m A\heu you ai'e ready to establish the 
points and take the measure, then talk to him 
and attract his attention to some other things, 
and you will soon find that he has come to terms 
— will sluiw, perhaps, his round slioulders, and 
stand in his usmil position. 

Supposing, now, that this be the case, we then 
goon and mark our Points, as illustrated by Fio- 
T'UE 1 and FKiiuK "2. 



D 



ATE 



Illustration of Points and Measurement. 



IpN' THIS System we have only oiu' point that 
,jt; requires the iilumb line, and this }>oint we 
liud by Eye measure. But as we desire that the 
h)catiou of this jjoint shall be fully understood 
by all wlio nuiy use this System, we will explain 
it witli a ruler to tiie new beginner : 

Bring the Vest smoothly down to the body at 
the waist, and fasten it to the pants with a pin so 
it will stay in its jjlace. Now take a short ruler, 
place it against the right front arm, let it run 
down in a plumb line, and draw a chalk mark at 
D, or waist, on the same side of ruler that rests 
on arm. Having this line, then draw a chalk 
mark crossways above the hip-bone, in the most 
hollow part of the body, so that these two marks 
will show thus -}-. and we have point D, Fig- 
ure 2. 

Now make a mark lengthways in centre of 
back, at neck, as at A, Fig. 1. Then make a 
mark crossways, at a point where the top of back 



Fjgura 1 and Figure 2. 

shall join the collar, (say one inch below the top 
or crease of collar,) so that these marks will sliow 
thus +, and we have point A, Figure f. 

Then make a chalk mark lengthways in centre 
of back, as at K, thence crossing at a point 
al)ont one-third of top and bottom of arm, from 
bottom of arm up, and we have the point K, 
Fig. 1. It is a good plan, when the waist length 
is taken from A to B, to note the exact amount 
from A to K. 

Next, make a mark in centre of liack at waist, 
and we have poin'J' E, Figure 1. 

These four Ptiuts which we have now estab- 
lished will produce the Balance of the Coat, and 
therefore the Cutter should locate them with the 
greatest care. 

Having located those Points, we tlien so on to 
show 

THE MEASIIRE.^EIVT. 
Bring the tape on -j- A, Fig. 1; measure to K, (say 




PLATE, I 



1^.1 



Ti^ ^. 







\i,iV'^ -^^r 



D 



M 




THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



6i inches); let it run down to B, for full length of 
waist, (say ISf inches), thence to C, full length of 
coat (say 38 inches). These three measures may 
be taken before your customer lias laid off his 
coat ; and those not experienced in measuring 
over the vest may adopt that plan at the begin- 
ning, and thus make a gradual change if they 
deem it advisable to do so. 

Xow place the tape measure on -|-) ^v^Fig. 1, 
and measure from tluit point, as follows : 

From iV, down in back in a direct line to + 1), 
Fig. 2, as line F, Fig. 1 indicates, (say 19i inches), 
and we have the Back Balance measure. Bring the 
tape over the front shoulder, and measure from A, 
down in front of arm to +l),Fig.2,(say %)\ inches), 
and we have the Front Balance. Extend the tape 
measure to I, or hand, for full lengtli of sleeve, 
(say 31i inches). 

Note : The measure for sleeve length may be 
taken in another form, as follows : Raise the arm 
in horizontal line with the body, have the elbow 
slightly bent. Then measure from centre of 
back to elbow, (say 20 inches), then to tlie hand, 
full length of sleeve, (say 32^ inches'). AVe leave 
this for the Cutter to decide whicli measure he 
will adopt. 

Having the tape measure yet in fiont of arm as 
before stated, then measure from A, down in front 
of the arm, bring the tape around under the arm 
in a close-titting manner, (close, but not tight), 
then up to the starting point A, as indicated by 
line Ct, Figures 1 and 2, (say 26i inches), and we 
have the Arm-dejitli measure. 

ISTow, let the tape measure rest in that position 
in front and under the arm, and bring the tape 
down on back to point K, as shown by Figure 1, 
(say 23i inches), and we have the Shoulder mea- 
sure. 

The Cutter will see by this, that all the above 
measures are taken from Point A, top of back, 
where the end of the tape is held witli the left 
hand, and witli the riglit hand we apj)ly the 
tape to the different points. 

Now bring the tape measure down on -|- D, 



Fig, 2, and measure to E, centre of back, as 
shown on Fig. 1, (say 7-| inches), and we have the 
Back Waist measure. Let the tape measure rest 
on -f T), Fig. 2, l)ring the tape up in back of 
arm to top of shoulder, as shown by line H, Fig. 
1 and 2, and then across the acromian process, 
or, in other Avords, one inch from the extreme 
end of shoulder point, in a smooth-fitting man- 
ner, then down in front of arm to the starting 
point + D, (say 31 inches), and we have the 
grand new measure called 

THE NHOILDER RECil LATOR. 

Note : Before taking this measure, see that 
your customer's shoulder is down in natural po- 
sition, not raised or drawn back. Again, draw 
your measure close, but not tight, and sliould 
correspond in closeness to Front and Back Bal- 
ance. 

Next apply the tape for Breast Measure, as 
shown by L, Figures 1 and 2. Bring the tape 
measure close up under the arms, then across the 
shoulder lilades, and back again to the starting 
point, (say 36 inches). This measure should be 
taken quite snug, so that we may have the actual 
size of Breast. 

The next and last measure we now take is 
the Waist Measure, as shown by line M, Fig. 2. 
Bring the tape around the waist where the body 
is the smallest, and note the amount, (say 32 
inches). 

This comj)letes the measurement, summed up 
as follows : 

%\ inches Point of shoulder measure. 

ISf " Full length of waist measui'e. 

38 " Full length of coat. 

19^ " Back balance measure. 

20i " Front balance " 

31i '• Sleeve length " 

26i " Ann depth " 

23i " Shoulder " 

7i " Back waist " 

31 

36 " Breast measure. 

32 " Waist 



Shoulder Kegulator measure. 



TUB V UTTER AND <iJ'n>K. 



THE COAT SYSTEM. 



Dt 



ATE 



Diagram A. 

Ihowing the Sraft of a ®ouble-Sreasted Irock £oat. 



Draw a liii^ in centre of Imck ;is from to 0. 
yqiiare out ;it I'i.ulit nii.iile fi'oni A to Y. ]')oth 
of tliese lines are the construction lines from 
wliich we :ipply the measure to comi>]ete the 
draft. 

The next"i)oint which we must now establisli is 
line B, or front of arm scye, and this we do by 
the shoulder iik it.siin', whicli calls for 2;H inches 
in tlie measurement. 

Take tliis measure, divide it in two equal parts, 
and apply one-half, (llf inches), from A to B, 
and the correct point for the front of arm scye is 
established. (This i)oint will be more fully ex- 
plained below.) Xow, sqiiai'e u]) fi'om B to D, — 
which we will call line B. 

Next in order is the Front Balance nii^asure, 
whi(di calls for 2(U inches. Take the amount and 
apply it from V> to I). Squai'e out to K, and the 
front leiig'th (.>f the coat is established. 

Then apply the Back\Yaist measure, 7i inches, 
from A to E, and make a mark. 

Ilavinu' this, then draw a .short line from B to 
F, which is in the dii-ection to top of back. Now 
locate poiirt F. Measure the distance from E to 
B, (4^ inches), divide this in six equal parts, and 
apply one i)art (t inches) from B toF. Thiscme- 
sixth may be readily found as follows : if you 
have a divisicm square, then measure tlie distance 
from E to B, with the division of 4ths, and what- 
ever the nund>er may be in this (No. 17 in this 
case), take the same number in the division of 
24ths, and vou will have the one-sixth from 15 
to F. 

Next in order is the Back Balance measure. 
Take this measure lOi inches, add one seam, and 
apply the amount from F t(j 11, and we have the 
correct length of back. S(piare out from 11 to T. 
Having this, then locate point K. Take the 
amount from A to B, divide it in four parts, 
and apply one-fourth, (2^ inche.s), from D to K, 
and make a mark. 

Now ])roceed to locate line L, or bottom of arm 
scye. Take the arm depth measure 26| inches, 
and apply one-half of this measure (13^ inche.s') 



from K to ;>, and make a sweep line with your 
left tlnnnb-nail. Then apply the same amount 
(11!:^ inches) from II to 3, arid make a sweep line 
aLso, as shown in Diagram. Now place the 
square on O line ; let long ai'm of square rest 
on crossing of sweej) lines at 3, and in that posi- 
tion di'aw a line from L, through sweep to Y, in 
front, and we have the Ixittom of arm scye. 

Having this, then we establish point J, and by 
this we find line C. 

Take one-third of A and B, (3^ inches), and 
bring this from line B to J. Having this point, 
then apply | inch in all cases and sizes from J to 
0, and square line (_' up to S 

Now take one-half of"B and C, (2^ inches), add 
one seam, and bi'ing the amount from H to I — also 
from I) to (f. Square o:it from G to U. 

Next in order is line P, or point of back sle?ve 
seam — place the I'uler on crossing of B and L lines, 
let it rest on H, top of back, and make a mark on 
line C, as at N. Now place the square on centre 
of back, and square out from P through N to M. 

Then mark width of l)ack as at 1 and 2, (say f 
inch on each side of line P,) or any width ac- 
cording to fancy or fashion, and draw line 1 and 
2— mark out from 2, for pitch of back, say | inch 
more or less, according to the fashion of the 
day. 

Next ajiply the measure for length of waist 
from H to ^V, ISf inches. Square out from W 
to X. Mark up from I, f inch for .sjiring of back. 

Having all these points, we are now prepared 
to finish the Back. Shai)e tlie centre line of back 
from L to AY. Mark width of back as from A to 
4. Then commtMice and shajx' the back: draw a 
line from H to mark above 1, fioni I to 2, from 
2 to ], and from i down through 4 to bottom, ac- 
cording to fancy or fashion, and as shown in Di- 
agram A. 

Now locate point (,). Divide the distance from 
L to P in four equal i)art.s, and bring one part 
from line L up to Q, which gives us the point for 
front of sleeve yearn. Next place the tape on 
point of side l)ody as at 1, and make a sweep line 




PLATE II 



See Diiidr G Plate VII 








PLATE, III 







THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



9 



from bottom of inside seam of baok out to 6, 
which line will give the length of side bod}'. 
Place the ruler on point K and M, and draw a 
a line. Now locate point R. Measure the dis- 
tance from line B to C, (4^ inches), divide this in' 
three equal parts, and apply one-third, (If inch- 
es), from B to E, and we have the correct point 
from which we apply the grand new measure 
called 

" The Shoulder Kesnlsiion'." 

This we hnd calls for 81 inclies in the measure- 
ment. Now take the tape, place it on R, let it 
run up in a direct line to top of back shoulder 
seam at line C, (say 14| inches,) bring the 
amount, whatever it may be, on R, and apply 
full length of measure, 81 inclies, in a direct line 
up to S, and make a sweep line out from this 
point, as shown in Diagram, and we have the cor- 
rect ]ioint bj' which ^ve draw our line fftr front 
slioulder seam. 

Now I must draw your attention to the i-emark 
whicli I liavemade when points 1 and "J were loca- 



ted, as follows: "Mark width of back (say f 
inch) on eacli side of line P, or any widtli accord- 
ing to fancy or fashion." No doubt to tlie practi- 
cal Cutter this point is now clear why we have 
given the lil)erty of drawing the liack shoulder 
seam higher, or lowei', than f inch. Supposing 
we Avould mark line 2, one inch furtlier up than 
in Diagram and as above stated, then draw our 
back shoulder seam by this line : Now apply 
your Shoulder Regulator measure from R, to top 
of shoulder at line C, and we have Just the same 
amount more which we have marked up for line 
2. Now place the amount on R, ]nark off 31 
inches, up to S, and we find tliis jioint is just the 
same amount lower down ; and so vice versa. 
Therefore we say to the Cutter, suit yourself in 
regard to the shoidder drop of back, and have 
this point according to your taste or fancy, and 
the Shoulder Regulator measure will establish 
point S, ac(^ordingly. 

Having made this statement, we are ready to 
cut out the Back, and by doing so proceed and 
take up — 



D 



ATE 



Diagram B. 



Ill which we find the neces.sary instriu'tion to 
finish the Draft. 

First, proceed and finish the front Slioulder. 
Take the back, bring it on top of front shoulder, 
let H rest on K and fasten the back at this point 
with a i^in. Having done so, then shove the back 
in so that top of back will rest on K M line, and 
point 2, pitch of back, will be f inch above sweep 
line S ; and in that position draw a line by back 
shoulder seam from K M line to * centre of 
shoulder. Now phice thepin at '■ and shove the 
back down so it will rest on sweep line S. Draw 
a line from ■■ to pitch of back. Having this, let 
the back remain in that position and shape the 
upper arm scye by l>ack pit<-h down to (^ to 3. 
Now take the back off and shape the shoulder of 
front part, from ai'in scye to * and from that 
point out to K M line, as shown in Diagram A. 

Next proceed and finish the side body and 
waist. Bring the back to point of side body, let 
line 1, front and back meet, and fasten the back 
at this point with a pin. Having done so, then 
the next thing must be to find the correct round- 
ing of side body from 1 to line L, which will be 
in harmony with the form of body for which the 
draft is made. Now to acccmiplish this to our en- 
tire satisfaction, we must apply the shoulder 
measure, which is the oidv true guide in this im- 



portant matter. Make a mark in centre of back 
Q\ inches below H, for point of shoulder measure. 
(See measurement.) 

Then take the Shoulder measure, which calls for 
23^ inches, add | inch for seams in all cases, and 
apply the full amount, (24^ inches in this draft), 
as follows : — From K to Q, then around the 
front arm scye, in a smootli-fitting manner, to 3, 
and from 3 in a direct line to centre seam of back 
and mark made by 0^ inches ; shove the back in 
at bottom until this measure will rest on or meet 
this point ; and wlien so, then draw a line from 
1 to line L, alongside of the back, and we have 
the correct rounding for the foiTu of the bod,y. 
Now let the back remain in that position, and 
shape the arm scye frt)m 1 to 3, as shown in Dia- 
gram. 

Having this, then place the pin close to the 
edge of inside line of l)ack at L, and shove the 
back in below. Now take the Back Waist mea- 
sure, add 1^ inch in all cases to the measure, and 
bring the amount (S| inches in this case) from B 
to A, or centre of back, as shoAvn in Diagram ; 
and in that po-iition, draw a line from L to bottom 
of back, as shown by dotted line. Having this, 
then finish the side body by these lines : give a 
little more rounding at top, from 1 to L, and 1)9- 
low L, hollow the side body a trifie to A line, 



10 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



aucT from there give the necessary spring to 6, 
whatever the form may need, as shown in Dia- 
grams B and A. 

Next, finish the Waist \rAvt. Draw a line 
for Avidtli of side body, according to fancy or 
fasliion, as from line L, to 7, to 9. Now we have 
given 1^ inch more than back waisl measure from 
B to A, — J inch of whicli is necessary for seams ; 
the other half inch we tak(Mmt between side body 
and front part, as from 7 to 8. Having this, then 
draw a corresponding line from L, tlirongh 8, to 
bottom. Next establish the bottom line of side 
body. Bring tlie angle of square on (i, Diag. A ; 
let long arm of S(puire rest on II, top of back, \ 
and draw a liue from (5 to 9, and by tliis shape 
the l)Ottom line of side body. 

The next thing must be to ai)])ly tlie Breast 
measure. Close the l)ack to side liody, as in Dia- 
gram B. Measure out from L to T, one-half 
breast nieasure,18 inches— froui T to \, i?|- inches 
in all sizes. Square up fi'om T to I'. From U, 
draw a line to Y. Fiom I' to Z, mark ^ inch 
more tlian one-sixtli of breast, '.\^y inches— from 
G to Z 2, (Diagram A K onedmlf the amount, 
If inches— and draw a line l>y these points, for 
depth of neck. Now place the liack on to]) of 
shoulder jioint, as in Diagi am B, and finish the 
neck gorge as in Diagram. 

Next to this we apply tlie Waist Meas- 
ure. You will remember tluit we have applied 
the back waist measure from B to A. Nowlu'ing 
the auiount 7i inclu-s on line B, mark out to ' 
front, one-half waist. Id inches, and allow one- ; 
half inch, or even one inch more for nuiking up, ! 
and we have point Y. Note :— The allowance at 
this point depends entirely (m the material, and 
also on the ease which the customer wishes. 

Now commence and hnish the iVont. Draw a i 
line from neck point to ^^ from A' thi'ougli Y to 
bottom. Then draw the bottom line ; commence 
one seam below the side body at 9, and strike 
X in front, and as shown in Diani'am. 



Next finish the lapel. Draw a line from X to 
top — extend A and L line out. Mark width at 
top (say 2\ inches), or fashion — at line L, (say 2| 
inches) at A line, (say 2^ inches) — at bottom, (say 
2 inches), finish the top according to the fashion 
of the day. Now proceed and draw the front 
line from top to bottom, and finish all the rest, as 
shown in Diagram A and B, and the draft for a 
double In-easted coat is finished. 

But here I will say, In case the Cutter should 
be in doubt tluit he may not have applied the 
Shoulder Measure for the rounding of side body 
as it ought to be, and according to the explana- 
tion herein given, then he may prove its correct- 
ness by the Back Balance measure, as follows : 
Mark up from B, to * at F, (Diagram B), the 
same amount as we have taken out from 7 to 8, 
or h incdi ; and from this aj^ply the Back Balance, 
19^ inches, up to H, and make a sweep line, as 
shown in Diagram B. Now, if the top of back 
will rest on this sweep line when brought in a 
joining position Avith side body, as in Diagram, 
then the application of the Shoulder Measure is 
correct. 

Now, as we have finished the draft, and are 
ready to cut the pattern out, let us take the fol- 
lowing measures from the draft while it is whole, 
and therefore it is more convenient to do so. 

First: Close the back and front shoulder at 

'line S, as in Diagram B. Now, measure from N, 

or P line, around the upper arm scye to Q in 

front, in a close-fitting manner, and we will find 

9 inches in this draft. Note the amount down. 

Next ; ]\Ieasui-e from Q around the lower arm 
scye up tf) N, in back, (say 7f inches). Note the 
amount down. 

Then bring the tai)e on K, and measure to Q, 
(say llf inches). Note this down also. 

These three measures we will need when the 
draft of Sleeve is made, which we find in Plate 
^'I. Diagrams E and F. 

Having these three measures, then cut the pat- 
tern out. 



f HE Mraft of a Iingle Ireasted Ioat 



I deem it necessary to state to tlie young, inex- 
perienced Cutter, that the Single Breasted Coat 
is drafted in the same manner as the Double 
Breasted, without any change whatever, except 
the front, Avdiere a certain amount has to be 
brought out from \ and \', 

Now, in regard to the amount which is needed, 
no fixed qnantity can be given, and must be made 
according to the style of fi-ont. We will there- 
fore give a guide only, Avhich may l)e 



FOLLOWED nr THE CUTTEU : 

For a coat which shall roll down to the 2d but- 
ton at waist, and which is intended to l)utton up 
below, — We mark (nit from V (say 1^ inches) and 
at Y (say 1 inch) more f)r less, according to the 
ease wanted l)y the customer. 

A coat with a short roll, and intended to but- 
ton np very high, — One inch is sufficient from V 
out ; and below this point the style and fashion 
will reii'ulate it. 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



11 



Mcsunrks on the aboY e Draft. 

The Draft of Diagrams A and B is now finish- 
ed and thoroughly explained. Therefore, I deem 
it my duty to state, that by this single draft 
the Cutter has (with only one exception, my 
whole Sj'stem of tlie Coat Body. No mat- 
ter wliat shape or form he may have to deal 
with, or for which he may be called upon to pro- 



vide a covering, the principal part of drafting is 
for all alike. 

This one exception is, as we have alluded to 
in the commencement of the draft, by applying 
one-half of shoulder measure from A to B, or 
front of arm scye line, and Avill be fully explain- 
ed on this page, bearing title ''The Shoulder 
Measure in connection with Front and Back Bal- 
ance." 



©HE ShOULDEI^ fflEASUr^E, 



IN CONEECTION AYITH FRONT AND BACK BALANCE. 



This is a simple but highly important point, 
and all those who intend to study and practice 
this New System should follow the instruction as 
herein given : 

The Cutter will see at once that the Front and 
Back Balances measures will bring the length of 
coat, in front and liack ; and, according to the 
length of the Back Balance, the sweep lines at 
8 will change more to the front or to the back. 
(See Diagrams A, C and D.) 

And just in the same manner the Shoulder 
measure must change also, otherwise it will not 
be in harmony with Front and Back Balance 
measures. 

Now this we do in a very easy and simple 
way, without any complication whatever. 

In the regular proportioned size of coat, (no 
matter what the size of breast may be), the back 
balance is always one inch less than the front 
balance. (See measurement. Diagram A). But 
as long as the back balance does not run balow 
this one inch, and also not above the front bal- 
ance, we call it a proportioned size, and apply 
one-half of the shoulder measure from A to B, 
for front of arm scye line, as shown in Diagram 
A. 

But as soon as the back ])alance is more than 
the front l)alance (as the case will be in stooping 
forms,) then whatever the amount may be which 
the back balance is more than front, we add the 
amount to one-half of shoulder measure, and 
apply it from A to B, for front of arm scye line. 

This is fully illustrated in Diagram C. 

Then we take the reverse side, where the back 
balance runs more than one inch below the front 
balance (as the case will be in erect forms). In 
all such cases we deduct the amount which is 
less than one inch, from the one-half shoulder 
measure, and whatever is left of the one-half 



shoulder we apply from A to B, and draw the 
front of arm scye line by this point. 

To show this more plainly, we suppose the 
front balance will call for 20^ inches — the back 
balance 19 inches. Here we luive i inch which 
we must deduct from the slunilder measure. 
Supposing now the shoulder measure calls for 
23 inches, one-half of which would be 11^ inches. 
Now deduct the ^ inch from this, and we have 
11 inches, which we apply from A to B. 

This is also illustrated in Diagram D, (see 
measurement) — front balance 23| inches — back 
balance 22 inches. Here we have | inch which 
we must deduct from the shoulder measure. Now 
take one-half shoulder measure, 14^ inches ; de- 
duct I inch from this and we have IS^- inches, 
Avhich we api^ly frojn A to B, as shown in the 
draft of Diagram D. 

This includes all cases, no matter what the dif- 
ference may be between front and back balance, 
and which may exist in one way or the other, 
and by doing so, the front of arm scye line will be 
established according to the form of the body 
which we have measured and drafted for ; and 
the shoulder measure will be brought in harmony 
with front and back balance. 

Now, should any Cutter wish to know the rea- 
son for so doing, I will state it to him. In the 
first case above mentioned, (stoox^ing), the dis- 
tance from D to bottom of arm scye is less than 
the proportioned size, and consequently the dif- 
ference of shoulder measure is made up from L 
to B, or front of arm scye. 

In the second case, (erect), the distance from D 
to bottom of arm scye is more than the jiropor- 
tioned size, and L to B must be just so much less. 

This point B, or front of arm scye line, is of 
great importance in coat cutting, and therefore 
we show its ett'ect more fully in the next article. 



12 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



ANT) THE EFFECT WHICH IS HAS IF NOT PROPERLY LOCATED. 



The prox»er and deiiiiite location of B line, or 
front of arm scye, is one of the most imx^oi'tant 
points in coat enttinii', and therefore well worthy 
of stndy and consideration. 

We can say with safety, and witliout liesita- 
tion, that in nine cases ont of ten which the Cut- 
ter must call misfits, the foundation to these was 
laid (and can lie traced back to this point) V)y 
misplacing B, or front of arm scye line. 

To prove this, we take the proportioned size of 
a 30 inch breast, — and in this Ave have the follow- 
ing measures : From centre of back to front of 
arm scye llf inches, and from this point to cen- 
tre of l)reast 9 inches. 

Now, take for instance the so called erect fonii 
with the same breast measure, 'M inches : — and. 
when measuied, we hnd the distance from centre 
of 1)ack to front of arm scye, or B line, (say lOf 
inches), and from tliis i^oint to centre of breast 
10 inches. Now what do these measures say, or 
indicate? It is simply this : Bring B line one 
inch more towards the back than in the projwr- 
tioned size, and we have this line according to 
the form of the body, and also the actual amount 
of bi'east from B to A', or centre of lireast, wjiich 
the form does need. 

'I'his is now one side by which we ha\"e shown 
our point. Then take tlie sfoojiiiiei fdnn, Avith 
the same breast measure, 86 inches, — and when 
measured we lind the distance from centre of back 
to front of arm scye (say 12| inches,) and from 
this point to centre of breast (say 8 inches.) (See 
Diagram C.) Now this shows tlie reverse side 
from the so-called erect form ; and shall we 
meet the reqinrements of the form, B line must 
be drawn one inch further out from the regular 
proportioned size, and by so doing we have the 
correct width from centre of back to fi'ont of arm 
scye, and also the correct width of breast. 

Siqiposing now, the Cutter uses the so-called 
Division or Breast Measure System, which places 
I of breast, from centre of back to front of arm 
scye, no matter what form the customer may 
have, erect or stooping, it gives the amount for 
each one alike. And what will be the result ; 

In the first case al)0ve stated, (erect form, ) the 



coat will be too full in the back and under the 
arm, while it will be too narrow in front of breast, 
))ecause the fullness in back, or extra amount of 
cloth, which ))rings the fullness, is needed in 
front of lireast. 

In the second case, (stoojiing form), the coat 
will lie too tight in back to front of arm scye, 
and too full in front of breast, — liecause the full- 
ness in front of breast is needed in back. But in 
this case the Cuttei' will tind moi-e than lieino- 
tight in liack. He hnds a big wriidvle from centre 
of liaclv below the shoulder blades, extending 
across the side luidy to front of arm scye, thence 
up to fr(mt shoulder point. The arm scye is too 
small. Every movement the customer makes 
shows only too plainly that it is a spoiled gar- 
ment, which can never be made to give entire sat- 
isfaction to the customer, nor to the Cutter. For 
him it is an eyesore, which he will try to get rid of 
if possible ; and therefore, the next thing he will 
do is, he goes to work to cut the front of arm 
scye out and give more room to the wearei'. But 
when the coat is finished and tried on, he will hnd 
a worse tit than before. 

Tile tpiestion may arise, why should this be so; 
and we ansAver : because, Avhen the front of ami 
scye was cut, all the jxiints on top of front shoul- 
der were changed also and consequently the 
whole coat is thrown out of lialance. It will 
make the coat scmiewhat easier by the operation, 
but it will draw more wrinkles up in front. Then 
conies wadding in jtlay, and all these points 
where the Avrinkles are will be stuffed out, and 
l)y the time the job is conqileted a hard day's 
work is done and gone, and the pay for all this 
trouble and labor is — a ba<l-htting coat. 

We therefore say, before the Cutter can expect 
a good and easy-fitting coat, it is necessary for 
him to locate front of Arm Scye, or B line, in 
harmony with the figure for wliich he is called 
upon to provide a covering. 

In this System we acconqilish the good result 
by applying the Shoulder Measure in harmony 
Avitli Front and Back Balance, in the manner as 
above stated. 



PLATE, IV 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



13 



PLATE IV. 

Diagram C. 



SHOWING THE DRAFT FOR THE ROUND SHOULDER STRUCTURES. 



In this Diagram we intend to prove our ar- 
gunient in regard to B line, or front of Arm Scye. 
The breast measiire is the same as in Diagram A, 
36 inches — and the shoulder measure only \ inch 
more than in the first draft. But, as we will find, 
when tlie draft is nuide, the distance from A toB 
is 13 inches, which is equal to a 39 inch breast, — 
and from B line to \ . finly S inches, equal to a 
32 inch breast. 

Now, all these changes tlu:' me-asures will lu'ing 
for themselves, without any guesswoi'k whatever. 



Tlie measurements, we su})pose, are as follows : 
7 inclies Point of slioulder measure. 
1!) " Waist length. 
2«)i^ " Back Balance. 
liH " Front Balance. 
3H- " Sleeve Length. 
27 " Arm depth measure. 
24 " Shoulder measure. 
84 " Back waist measure^. 
3()i '' Shoulder regulator measure. 
36 " Breast measure. 
34 " Waist measure. 

THE DRAFT. 

Draw line O to — square out from A to Y. 
Take onedialf of shoulder measu)'e, 12 inches. 
Now notice front and back balance : Here we 
find one inch more back length than front ; — add 
this 1 inch to onedialf of shoidder measure, and 
bring the amount, 13 inches, from A to B. (See 
"The Shoulder Measure in connection with 
Front and Back Balance.") 

Now square up from B to D, and we have the 
front of ann scye line, according to the form of 
the body. 

Mark from B to I), front balance, 19^ inches — 
square out from D to K — mark from A to pj, back 
waist measure, 8^ inches — draw line from B to F 
— measure from E tf> B, 4| inches ; divide this in 
six equal parts, and liring one-part, f inch, from 
B to F. 

Now api)ly back lialance, 20^ inches, fiom F to 
H, and make a short sweep out to top of l)ack — 
then mark onedialf of the amount, which the 
back balance is more tlian front balance, (or \ 
inch ill tliis case) from centre line out to H, by 
which we form the top of back, as in Diagram. 

Bring the square on H, and draw a line through 



sweep and mai'k made liy \ inch out to I — mark 
one-fourth of A and B frcnii D to K, 3^ inches. 
Apply one-half of arm depth, 13^ inches, from K 
to 3, make a sweep — then the same amount from 
H, top of back, to 3, and make a sweep also. 
Bring square on centre line as at L, let long arm 
rest on crossing of sweep lines at 3, and down a 
line from L, through sweep, to V. Mark one- 
third of A and B, 4| inches, from line B to J — 
from J to C, I inch — square up from C to S. 

Bring ruler on crossing of B and L lines, let it 
rest on top of ba(ds: at H, and mark for N. Scpiare 
out from P through N to M— draw a line from M 
to K — mark width of back pitch as at 1 and 2 — 
mark from H to I, one-half of B and C, 2^ inclies 
— the same amount from D to G, and square out 
to U. Mark Q one fourth of L and M. 

Next apply length of waist measure from H to 
W — square out to X — mark in from A, (say \ 
inch), and shape the back line from H, through 
mark, to bottom, as shown in Diagram. Mark 
width of back, from A to 4 — mark | inch a))ove I 
for spring of back. Having all these points, then 
shape the back from II to I — from I to 2 — from 2 
to 1, and from 1 through 4, to liottom of back — 
sweep by 1, from bottom of inside line of back, 
out to 6. 

Now l)ring one-third of B and C, or If inches, 
from B to R. Having this point, then apply 

THE SHOILDER RE«l LATOR. 

Measure from R to top of back shoulder seam 
at line C (^say 14| inches). Bring the amount on 
R, and measure to S, full length of measure, 3()|- 
inclies, and make a sweep out from S, as shown 
in Diagram A. Now cut the back out, and finish 
the front shoulder, as shown in Diagram B. 

Also shape the upper arm scye to Q, to 3. 

Next, place the back to point of side body- 
fasten it with a pin. Apply the shoulder mea- 
sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye 
to 3, then to centre of back (7 inches below H), full 
measure, 24 inches, and allow J inch more for 
seams. Now draw a line along side of back from 
1 to line L — l)ring the pin down to L. Apply 
back waist measure, and 1^ inch more, from B to 
A — draw a line from L to bottom of inside seam 
of back, and then shape the side body bj' these 
lines, as shown in Diagram B. Next draw bot- 
toni line of side body, as before shown — draw a 



14 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



line under the ann for width of side body as at 7 
— from 7 to 8, marlv ^ inch, which we liave allow- 
ed, from B to A, and sliape the front part throngh 
8, as sliown in Diagram. Apply the breast mea- 
sure from L to T (as Diagram B)— from T to V, 2i 
inches. Square ui) from T to U — from U to Z, 
one-sixth of breast and h inch more — CI to Z2, 
one-lialf tlie amount — draw a line l)y tliese points 
— also from U to Y. Shape the neck gorge. 

Next apply tlie waist measure — biing tlie back 
waist measure, 8^ inches, on B, and mark out 
one-half waist, 17 inches, and allow ^ inch for 
making up. Having this, then sliape tlie front 



line for a Double Breasted Coat. Also draw bot- 
tom line of front part, and iinish all the rest as 
shown in Diagram. 

Measure upper arm scye from N to Q — then 
from Q, around the lower arm scye to N — also 
from K, to Q, and note the aiiioiint foi' draft of 
sleeve. 

The Diagram also shows the Single Breasted 
Cutaway Coat, to button up high. Measure oiit 
from y one inch — at top 1^^ inches — and shape 
the front down by these points. 

The explanation of Skirt will be found on Plate 
YII,— Diagram H. 



PLATE V. 

Diagram D. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT FOR A CORPULENT FIGURE. 



The reason for giving this large size of Diagram 
is, first, to show how easy it is to draft a pattern 
for this class of men by this System ; and, sec- 
ond, to show the application of the Shoulder 
Measure in reverse to Diagram C. 

The measurement will show, that we have the 
so-called "erect" form of the human liody be- 
fore us — and when the draft is finished it will 
show that t he length of back, from L to H, is 1 f inch 
less than the regular size of breast measure — from 
centre of back to front of arm scye If inch less 
than the regular size of breast, or, in other 
words, for a breast measure of 41 inches — and 
consequently the distance from front of arm scye 
to A^ is just the .same amount more. 

- The measure we suppose as follows : 

7f inches Point of shouldei' measiu-e. 

21 " Waist length 

22 '• Back balance 
23f " Front balance 

36 " Sleeve length " 

33 " Arm depth 

28i " Shoulder 

9 " Back waist " 

34^ " Shoulder regulaor " 

46 " Breast 

50 " Waist " 

THE DRAFT. 

Draw line to 0. Square out from A to Y. 
Take one-half of shoulder measure, 14^ inches. 
Now notice front and back balance : Here we 
find the back balance If inch less than front 
balance, and consequently we have | inch, which 
we must deduct from one-half shoulder measure 



— deduct tliis, and it gives us 13.} inches, which 
we apply from A to B, and the front of arm scye 
13oint is established. Now square up from B — 
mark B to I), front l)alance, 23f inches — square 
out to K — A to E, back waist, 9 inches — divide 
the distance from E to B in six parts, and bring 
one-sixth, | inch, from B to F — F to H, back 
balance, 22 inches, add one seam. Square out to 
I. Bring one-i'ourtii of A and B from D to K, 
3f inches. Now apply one-half of arm depth 
measure, 16.]- inches, from K to 3, and make a 
sweep line — then the same amount from II to 3, and 
make a sweep also. Place the square on centre 
of back and draw a line from L, through sweep 
at 3, to \, ill front. Now bring one-third of A 
and B, from B line to J, 4| inches — from J to C 
J inch, and square up to S. Bring the ruler on 
crossing of B L lines ; let it rest on H, and mark 
N — square out from P, through N to ]\I — draw a 
line from M to K — H to I one-half of B and C^ 
the same amount from D to G— square out to U 
— mark width of back as 1 and 2. Then apply 
waist length from H to W — square out to X. 
Finish the centre line of back from H to W — ■ 
mark widtli from A to 4 — give f inch above I, 
for spring of back. Now commence and shape 
the l)ack from H to I — from I to 2—2 to 1, and 
from 1 down through 4, to bottom. Bring the 
tape on 1, and s^^■eep out to 6. Take one-third 
of B and C, If inches, and, bring this from B to 
R — apply 

THK SHOl liDER RECJl I.ATOR, 

From R to top of back shoulder seam at line C, 
(say 15i inches), bring the amount, whatever it 
may be, on R, and then full measure, 34^ inches, 



PLATE, V 







PLATE, VI 








THE CUTTER AKD GUIDE. 



15 



up to S, and make a sweep, as shown in Diagram. 
Now cnt the back out. 

Next, finish the front shoulder as in Diagram B. 
Also draw iippsraEm scye to Q, to 3. Then bring 
the back on side bodj^ ; let line 1 meet ; place a 
pin at this point. Now apply the shoulder mea- 
sure from K to Q, then around the front arm scye 
to 3, and then to centre line of back, (7f inches 
below H), full measure, 28^ inches, and allowed f 
inch more for seams. Then draw a line from 1 to 
L ; place the pin at L, shove the back in on bot- 
tom — mark in from B, 1\- inch more than back 
waist measure, 10^ inches, to A, and draw a line 
from L to bottom of back. Now finish the side 
body as shown in Diagram B — draw bottom line 
from 6 to 9, — also side body line through 7 — from 
7 to 8, ^ inch, and draw a line from L, through 8 
to bottom. Next apply the breast measure from 



L, (as in Diagram B) to T — from T to V, 2| inches 
— square up from T to U — from U to * the difi'er- 
ence between breast and waist measure, 2 inches, 
and from this point draw a line to V — U to Z, 
one-sixth of breast and ^ inch moi'e — G to Z 2, 
one-half of the amount, and draw line out by 
these marks. Next apply the waist measure 
bring back waist, 9 inches, on B, and mark out 
to Y, one-half waist, 25 inches. 

Now commence and shape the neck gorge — then 
draw a line from neck point down to V to Y, to 
X, as shown in Diagram. Then from bottom of 
side body out to front, for bottom line of front 
part, and all the rest as shown in Diagram A. and 
B, and the draft is finished. 

(Draft of Collar, see Explanation, 
page 18). 



the sleeve system. 

Plate VL 



Before we show the draft of Sleeve, I must re- ' 
mind the Cutter of these three measures which we 
have taken from the pattern of Diagram B. 

The first one is the Upper Arm Scye, as from 
N to Q, 9 inches — the second one is the Lower 
Arm Scye, as from Q to N, 7f inches — the third 
one is from K to Q, 11 1 inches. 

Now, as these measures are directly applied to 
the draft of Sleeve, it is therefore very important 
that they should be taken with utmost care, and 
as nearly as possible correct. 

Draw a line from A to 0, — square out to II. 
Now take the back of Diagram A and mark the 
distance of L and P lines (3^^ inches) from- A to 
B. Square out from B to D. Now take the up- 
per arm scye measure, 9 inches, and bring the 
amount in a direct line from A to D, and make a 
mark. 

Place the angle of square on D, let arm of 
square rest on B, and draw a line down to L, and 
we have the width of upi)er sleeve. Now take 
the pattern of Diagram A, measure the distance 
in front of arm scye from line L to Q, (f inch) and 
bring this from B to C — draw a line from C to D. 
Divide the upper arm scye measure in three equal 
parts, and apply one-third, (3 inches) from B to 
E. Place angle of square on E, let arm of square 
rest on C, and drawn lineup to F, and we have 



now the correct point which will bring the right 
length of sleeve head. 

Now place the tape on F, make this ijoint a 
pivot, let crayon rest on A, and make a sweep 
line from A to CI. Having this, then shape the 
front sleeve head from centre of A and B lines to 
D, striking front line one seam above B line as 
shown in Diagram. 

Next apply the measure for sleeve length, 
which we find in Diagram A, 31-|- inches. Now 
the measure we have taken from K to Q is llf 
inches. Bring the amount on line B, in front of 
sleeve, and mark ofl' \ inch more than full mea- 
';ure to L, 31f inches. The Cutter will find that 
the allowance which we have made for seams is 
^ inch — \ inch above line B, and ^ inch at L. 
Now mark I in centre of B and D — bring angle 
of square on L, let long arm of square rest on I, 
and in that position draw a line from L to M. 
Mark width of sleeve from L to M, according to 
fashion, (say 6 inches), — mark K in centre of D 
and L — square out to N — draw front line of 
sleeve according to fashion. Mark width of 
sleeve from front line to N, (say 9 inches, more 
or less.) Having this, then draw the back line 
of sleeve from A through N to M, as shown in 
Diagram E. 

THE IM5KR SIDE OF SLEEVE. 

Take the measure as alcove given for lower arm 



16 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



scye, 7f inches — bring tlie amount from D to H. 
Malve a niavk — and ^\-e Avill tind a space between 
H and A, of IJ inch — take one-half, or ^ inch, 
and mark this in from D to G, wliich we 
make the point for front line of under side — now 
apply the measure, 7J inches, again from CI to H, 
and draw front and back line for undersleeve by 
these points — take the distance from B to C, de- 
duct one seam, and bring the amount in front be- 
low B line, and sqpare across for bottom line of 
under side. Having this, then shape from H to 
I. to bottom line, tt) G, makingB line the length 
of under side, as shown in Diagram E. 

DIAGRAM F. 

Tills Diagram shows liow to change the Front 
seam of Slee^'e. 

The drafting is in the same manner as in Dia- 
gram E, and when di'afted, then mark out fi-om 
D, the amount whicli you decide upon the sleeve 
seam shall come behjw Q on front part, (say li 
inch), bring the same amount out from L, and 
draw a line down by these marks, as shown in 



Diagram F. Now, wliatever the amount may be 
which we have marked out from D and L, bring 
the same amount in from Gand L, and draAvyour 
line for underside by these points. 

But when the seam is placed outside of D and 
L, be careful and have the goods stretched, on the 
outside of D L, so that it will lay over smoothly 
on upper sleeve. 

I^^^The Cutter will remenil)er, tliat we have 
given two measurements, in the Explanation of 
Measurement, by which we may oljtain the sleeve 
length. The first measure is as we have applied 
in the draft of Diagram E. The second measure, 
as we have stated in the measurement of sleeve, 
is from C3ntre of back to el])ow, and then to the 
liand, or full length of sleeve. 

Now, those who wish to adopt this x)lan apply 
the measure as follows : Measure the width of 
back, from P to N, or (J line — bring the amount 
on A, top of sleeve; and from A, extend the tape 
to N, to M, full length of measure, and allow -J- 
inch more for sea,ms. All the rest is as shown in 
Diagrams E and F. 



J few ^en]arks oi] Sleeve 6uttii]i^\ 



No doubt the majority of Cutters will agree on 
one 'point when we say, that a good-tittiug sleeve 
is the ornament to a well-fitting coat. Yes, more 
than this, we may say without hesitation, it is 
the finishing toui;]i cjf beauty and elegance to the 
garment ; while, on the other hand, a well-fitting 
coat body containing a bad-fitting sleeve is an 
eye-sore to the intelligent Cutter. 

But while the majority of Cutters agree on this 
very imptu'tant point, it is nevertheless a, Avell 
known fact that the sleeve does not receive the 
attention of many Cutters which it ought to have 
and should have. 

Now some may say, AVhy should this be so, 
and what reason have you for this ; We answer, 
because it is simply for this reason : that some 
Cutters look upon the sleeve as a matter of trifle 
and insignificance. Yes, some have formed an 
idea that almost anytliing in the shape of a sleeve 
will do, so long as it has the right lengtii, and 
width of arm scye. 

But this is the greatest error any Cutter can 
ever make — and no doubt some of this class of 
Cutters have already paid very dearly for it. 

It is a well known fact, that Cutters in general 
make the coat body their principal study, espe- 
cially if they have the misfortune of using a sys- 
tem whicli gives too much cloth in one place, or 
wrinkling to another —in all such cases tliev will 



try very hai'd to remedy the evil and avoid the 
bad consequences. But very few of them will 
give their study and attention to the sleeve, or 
even let the thought enter their mind that the 
sleeve might have something to do with the full- 
ness and wrinkling of the coat body. Neverthe- 
less, it is true tJiat in the majority of cases 
where the cutter iinds this troul,ile, the .sleeve is 
the very thing tliat produces it. 

Now, to prove our p(»int and argument, we 
take for instance, the cutter who has taken up 
the fashion of trying on the garment before it is 
finished, (which we must pronounce a very poor 
policy). lie fits on the coat without the sleeve, 
then according to his theory the sleeve will fit, if 
only the coat body will. \Vc suppose now that 
he is so fortunate as to find the coat body all 
right, it fits neatly around the arm scye, side 
body, and waist — shoulders are nice and square 
— and it is pronounced perfect fitting. The coat 
is then finished, and when tried on again, lo! 
what a change there is in the coat whicli the ar- 
tist has ])ronounced perfect fitting. The should- 
ers, which w(n'e so nice and square before, hang 
down now fiat as a leaf — the side body which 
were nice and smooth before, has now a surplus 
amount of lotise cloth extending across the back. 
The arm scye in front, whicli was smooth before, 
he liuds now a bin' wrinkle. Now then, Mr. Ar- 



PLATE, VII 




THE CUTTER AI^D GUIDE. 



17 



tist, what is tli3 causa of all these, changes ? And 
the answer will be, it is spoiled by the journey- 
man tailor. Now, we admit that the journeyman 
may have done his share, in not sewing in the' 
sleeve as it ought to be — but still, there must be 
some other cause that has brought all these 
changes — and this cause, we say is the sleeve, 
which does not fit in the arm scye. The sleeve 
head is too short, and drags the shoulder down 
and produces the fullness and wrinkling under 
the arm. And if the Cutter has any doubt that 
this be the case when caught in this dilemma, 
just rip out the top sleeve, from back to front 
seam, and this will show you that the shoulder 
will raise up in the same position as they were 
when fitted on first, and by this, all the loose 
cloth will be taken away — ^and furthermore, it 



will show you the amount which the sleeve head 
has to be lengthened to fit in the arm scye — and 
by so doing it will prove that the coat body is 
all right, but the sleeve is not. 

Now I claiia iliat my Sleeve System which is 
herein given and explained will produce a well 
fitting sleeve every time, providing the measures 
are taken correct, and the drafting is made ac- 
cording to the instruction therein given. It will 
fit the arm scye without dragging on the shoul- 
der. It will produce the sleeve according to the 
form or hang of arm. And furthermore, I claim 
that it is the most simple and time saving sys- 
tem on sleeve cutting in existence; any cutter of 
common talent can draft out a good fitting sleeve 
in less than one minute. 



THE SKIRT SYSTEM, 

PLATE VII. 



The Skirt is also a very important jtart of the 
coat, which, when in good shape and in good 
hanging position, will add beauty and elegance 
to the garment. It is therefore more worthy of 
study than it generally receives. 

My Skirt System has the most reliable points 



by which, if located according to the jilan as 
herein shown, will give in all cases, the correct 
spring in back of plait. It is simple in the way 
of drafting, and reliable in all its various points 
— because the most of these points are taken from 
the body and applied to the draft. 



Diagram G. 

SHOWING THE SKIRT FOR A DOUBLE-BREASTED FROCK COAT. 



Draw a line in front, as from A to B — A to C 
9 inches in all cases. Square in from C to D. 
Now to locate point D : we must say, this i^oint 
is governed by the fashion, and should be made 
accordingly, if the Skirts are worn very full, the 
amoiant must be more, and so vice versa. 

For a medium full skirt, we mark in from C to 
D, one inch in all sizes. 

Bring angle of square on A, let short arm rest 
on D, and draw a line on top, as from A to E. 
Now measure the bottom of front, side body and 
lapel, add 1 inch more for fullness, and bring 
the amount from A to F. Having this, then 
shape the top of skirt as shown by dark line, and 
as near as possible to the form of front part, as 
shown in Diagram A. Next measure the width 
of side body at bottom, bring the amount from F 
to G — square down to H. 

Now to find * H, we must jJace the squai'e on 
side body, as shown in Diagram A, as follows : 
bring angle of square on lower point of side body 
as to fi, let arm rest on edge of side seam at A 



line, as at 5, and in tliat position draw a line from 
6 to 10; then, whatever the space may be between 
9 and 10, (say 1^ inch in this case,) bring the a- 
mount from dark line (or actual waist line of skirt) 
from G to H, and make a * ; and we have the 
point which will give the correct spring in back 
of skirt. 

Bring the angle of square on point F, let ann 
rest on * H, and draw a line from F to K. Mark 
down from F to I, one-half breast, 18 inches in 
this case. 

Now place the side body in a joining position 
with top of skirt, as from F to G, and draw a 
curved line in harmony with side body from F 
through I to K, — also draw a corresponding line 
for the plait. 

Having this, tlien finish the l)ottoni line — meas- 
ure from F to K, length of back skirt, and allow 
^ inch more — in centre of skirt mark f inch more 
than back skirt, and in front as from A to B, 
length of back skirt, and finish the bottom by 
these points as shown in Diagram G. 



18 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



Diagram H. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF SKIRT FOR A CUTAWAY FROCK COAT. 

let arm rest on * F, and draw a line from C to D — • 
bring the side body on top of skirt as before 
stated, and draw a curved line from C down — also 
draw a eorrespondinn- line for the plait. Mark 
length of back skirt from C to D — also in front. 
Now bring the front p:irt in a joining position 
with top of skirt, and shape the front of skirt 
down t ) U. Next draw the bottom line from D 
to Ct, and finish the whole as shown in Diagram H, 
and according to fancy or fashion. 

Diagram I. 

THE DRAFT OF A DRESS COAT SKIRT. 



Draw line from A to B— bring the width of 
front and side body at waist seam, from A to C — 
next draw top line as shown in Diagr.or to fancy. 
]\Iark width of side body from C to E— square by 
A B line from E to F, and extend the line up to 
top of waist line. Now Ining the square on side 
body as before stated, and as shown in Diagram 
A. Measure from 9 to 10, (say 1^ inches in this 
case) and apply this from top line of skirt to * F. 
Having this, then place the angle of square on C, 



SHOWING 

The Dress Coat Skirt is drafted in the same 
manner as shown in Diagram II, with only one 
exception, and this is, draw top line in front one- 
half inch below A, as shown in Diagram; all the 
rest is as before stated. 

Now when we have all tliese points, then. meas- 
ure out from C! to H, f of lireast, (more or less), 
accoi'ding to fashion. Also from D to I, ^ of 
breast, or fashion. Next nuirk width of straps 
or belts, at H, (say If inche.s) at A, (say 1^ inch) — 
Then draw a line from H to I. Having this, then 
commence and linish the skirt liy these points as 
shown in Diagram, and according to the fashion 
of the day. 

The Draft of Bat-k Skirt. 

The Back Skirt Ave draft direct to the clotli. 

I»raw a line on edge of the cloth, full length of 
coat — mark off length of waist — from that point 
mark If inches to W, (Diagr. A). Now place the 
back on the cloth, let H rest on edge, and W on If 
inches. Then extend l)ottom line of waist to 
the cloth — let the back remain in its position, and 
apply the measure for length of coat (say 38 
inches — sqiiare out — measure out on waist line, 
from edii'e of cloth to inside seam of liack, and 



whatever the amount may be, bring this out on 
bottom of skirt. 

Having this point, then draw a gentle curved 
line from inside line of back to mark made at 
bottom — also for plait of skirt — and finish the 
rest according to fashion or fancy. 

The Draft of Collar. 

The Collar, as shown in Diagram D, is drafted 
as follows : Bring the ruler on front shoulder 
point ; let it rest on point to which the coat shall 
roll in front, and draw a line from O down, as 
shown by dotted lines — then bring the width of 
back from shoulder jioint to 3. From line 
mark down to 3, (say finch), and draw a line from 
this mark to tlie shoulder point for crease of col- 
lar — l)y this line square iip to 2, and also to 1. 
Mark standing collar, as from 3 tol, 1^ inches — 
from 3 to 2, (say li inches), or fashion, and shape 
the rest as shown in Diagram, and according to 
the fashion of the day. 

Collars which are intended for n sliort roll, as in 
the single breasted coat. Diagram C, — the point 
from to 3 may be made one inch, and draw line 
for crease of collar })y it, But if so, then have top 
and bottom stretched from centre seam to front 
of crease so it will lay over smoothly. 



The Draft of Body Sack. 

PLATE VIII. 



Sack Coats are drafted on the same i)lan as 
frock coats. I'he measurement is the same, and 
all the construction lines also. The only change 
which we must make in Sack Coats is in the di- 
vision of the amount from E to B. 

In Frock Coats we measure from E to B, and 
divide the anioimt m six equal jiarts and applj' 
one part from B to F. In Sack Coats, however, 
we must divide the distance, EfoB, in four equal 



l)arts, and apply one part (or ^th) from B to F. 

The reason for doing so is simply this : Sack 
Coats need a longer back on top, and the one- 
fourth i^irovides fm- this ; otherwise it is the same 
as shown in Frock Coats— and if the drafting is 
carried out according to the instructions as here- 
in given, a neat-fitting garment will be produced, 
which will give satisfaction to both customer and 
Cutter. 




PLATE, VIII 




vK 



iD 






THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



19 



The Measiiireiiieiit. 

The measures which we use in the explanation 
of this draft are the same as in Diagram A, with 
the exception of length of coat, as follows : 
6i inches Point of shoulder measure. 

30 " Lengtli of coat. 
19i " Back balance. 
20i " Front balance. 
31i " Sleeve length. 
26i " Arm depth. 

23i ' ' Shoulder measure. 
7i " Back waist. 

31 " Shoulder Regulator. 
36 " Breast measure. 

32 " Waist measure. 

DIAGRAM J. 

Draw a line from O to W. Square out from A 
to Y. (Notice front and back balance same as in 
frock.) A to B, one-half of shoulder measiire, 
llf inches — square up from B — B to D, front 
balance — square oiit from D to K — A to E — back 
waist measure. 

Then measure from E to B ; divide this in four 
parts, and bring one part (or one-fourth) from B 
to F — F to H, back balance 19^ inches, — square 
out from H to I — D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 21 
inches ; from K to 3, one-half of arm depth 13^ 
inches, make a sweep ; then the same amount from 
H to 3, and make a sweep also. Square out from 
L through sweep lines to front at V. Next bring 
one-third of A and B, from B line to J — J to C, f 
inche in all cases. Square up from C to S — take 
one-half of B and C, add one seam, and bring this 
from H to I, 2f inches ; then the same amount 
from D to G — square out to U — place the ruler on 
crossing of B, L, H, and mark for N — square out 
from P through N, to M; draw aline from ]\I to K. 

The next point we now establish is the width 
of back, or shoulder seam, as at 2. Now here I 
must say, this is a matter of fancy, where most of 
Cutters follow their own taste, and which the 
fashion will change also. Therefore I will give a 
guide only, which I find in general practice, 
brings this point about right. Measure the dis- 
tance from L to P lines, and apply one-half from 
N or P line, to 2, and square out. Mark out on 
this line pitch of back, (say f inch, more or less). 
Having this, then apply the measure for length 
of coat, from H to W ; square out from W to 
front. Next decide onjioint 1, or in other words, 
where you wish to locate the side line of 
back ; make a mark. Also mark width of back 
at bottom, as from W to X, to fancy, (say 6 
inches) ; having these points, then draw a line 
from 1 to X, for side seam of back, according to 
fancy or fashion. Mark in from A to -1, hollow 
of back, (say f inch, more or less), and draw 
centre of back from P, through 4 to bottom. 



Now shape the back from H to I, from I to 2, 
from 2 to 1, as shown in Diagram, and according 
to fancy or fashion. 

Having this, then take one-third of B and C, 
and mark this out from B to R, and apply 

The Shoulder Resi'iilator. 

Measure from 11, to top of shoulder seam of 
back at line C, bring the amoixnt on R, and mark 
off full measure, 31 inches, to S, in the same 
manner as in diagram A. Sweep out from S by 
R. Having this, then cut the back out. 

Bring the Ijack on top of front shoulder, and 
finish the shoulder on front part, and upper arm 
scye as shown in Diagram B. Next, bring the 
back on side seam as at 1, fasten it with a pin. 
Now a|iply the shoulder measure from K to Q, 
then around the front arm scye to centre of back, 
6i inches below H, and allow f inch for seams, as 
shown in Diagram B. 

Then draw a line from 1 to L, — mark from 5 
to 6 the amount which you intend to take out 
between l)ack and front. Now this as the prac- 
tical Cutter does know, depends entii'ely on the 
shape which we like to produce. If the coat 
shall fit close in l)ack the amount must be more, 
and if it shall be more in "a sti'aight form the 
amount must be less. For a medium close fitting 
body Sack, take one-fourth of E to B, in this case 
one inch. Having this, then shape the lower 
arm scye by the back, from 1 to 3, and draw side 
line of front from 1 through 6 to X as shown in 
Diagram. But here we must caution the Cutter: 
do not bring the point of side body below line 1, or 
point of side line on back, otherwise the back will 
be shortened on top. Always leave space for one 
seam between arm scye and side line at thisjioint. 

Now as we have finished all these x'oints, then 
apply the Breast Measure, as in Diagram B, from 
L to T — square up to U — from T to \' 2i inches, 
make a mark. Next bring the Back Waist 
measure 7i inches, on B, and mark out one-half 
of waist measure, 10 inches to Y. 

Next place the ruler on U and Y and draw a 
line to Z, which we make the point for collar. 
Then mark from U to Z one-sixth of breast and 
J inch more — bring one-half of the amount from 
G to Z 2 and draw a line out. 

Mark out from V. (say 1 inch, more or less, ) 
according to the style of front — then shape the 
neck, and draw a line down in front according 
to fancy or fashion, and finish all the rest as 
shown in Diagram. 

Next mark Q, one-fourth of L and M — measure 
upper and lower arm scye ; also from K to Q, as 
shown in frock coat, and draft the sleeve by these 
measures as in Diagr. E, and the draft is finished. 



20 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



f^ 



^_ 



|OUBLE AND |lNGLE-§REASTED |aCK ^VER l^OATS. 

PL.ATE IX. 



M}e Sack Overcoat. 

8;ick OverC'oats, as sluiwii in this Diagram, are 
dral'ted in tlie same manner as Vxjcly sacks, and 
as shown in Diagram J, with only one exception. 

By looking over the Diagram we find all the 
points and letters as in Body Sack. I]nt after 
all, there is one jioint to which your attention 
must be drawn, and this is fi'om X to 7. 

In Body Sacks we draw tlic side line of front 
part to X, or l^ack. 

The Over Coat, howevei', needs more fullness 
at bottom, and therefore we must change this 
point according to the length of coat, and also 
according to the fullness which the fashion may 
call for. 

In regard to the measureirient of Sack and 
Frock Over Coats : The measures should beta- 
ken over the under or body coat, in the same 
manner as we have explained in the measurement 
over the vest. By taking the measurement over 
the undercoat we will have the exact amount to 
diaft from, without making any allowances what- 
ever, except in those places where v,*e allow for 
seams and making up. Hind this the easiest and 
surest way of measuring and drafting the Over 
Coats. 

The Mesjsuri'saaegii, 

We suppose, as follows : 

6f inches Point of shoulder measure. 
42 ■' Length of Coat. 

20 " Back balance. 

21 " Front balance. 
32 " Sleeve length. 
28 " Arm depth. 

24f " Shoulder measure. 

8 " Back Avaist measure. 

32 " Shoulder liegulator measure. 

38 " Breast measure. 

33i " Waist 

DIAGRAM K. 

Draw a line from to AV — stpiare out from A 
to Y. (Notice front and back balance.) Now 
bring one-half of shoulder measure, 12f inches, 
from A t(j B — square up from B — B to D, front 
balance — A to E, back waist — B to F, one-fourth 
of E and B — F to H, back balance — D to K, one- 
fourth of A and B — K to 3, one-half arm depth, 
make a sweep — H to 3, same amount nmke a sweep 
also. Square out from L, tlirough sweep to front — 
B line to J, one third of A and B— J to C, J inch. 
Square up from C to S ; mark N by H, and L B 



line — square out from P, through NtoM — draw 
a line from K to M — N to 2, (say one-half of L and 
P), more or less — H to I, one-half of B and C, and 
one seam — D to G, same amount — square out to 
U — H to W, length of coat — square out to front 
— A to 4, (say | inch,) — AV to X, width of back, 
(say 6i inches, more or less) — line 1, to fashion 
or fancy. Now finish the back, from H to I, 
from I to 2 — from 2 to 1, and from i through 5 
to X — then finish the centre of back as shown 
in Diagram, and according to fashion. 

Bring one-third of B and C, from B to R. 
Tlien apply 

The Hhoiihler Re£;uhtto9*. 

Measure from R to top of Back Shoulder at 
line C, Iji'ing the amount on R, and mai'k up to 
S full length of measure, 32 inches, and make a 
sweep from S oirt, same as in Diagram A. Now 
cut the ])ack out. Bring the back on top of front 
shoulder and finish the same as in Diagram B, — 
draw a line for upper arm scye to Q to 3. Then 
bring the back to side seam let line 1, meet, fasten 
the back with a pin — apjily the shoulder measure 
from K to Q, then around the arm scye to 3, then 
to centre seam of back 6f inch below H, and allow 
f inch for seams — draw a line from 1, to line L, 
mark from 5 to 0, (say one-fourth of E and B, 
more or less). Now mark spring at ])ottom, as 
from X to 7 — (say 2^ inches). Then draw the 
side seam of front from 1 to L through 6 to 7 as 
shown in Diagram — shape the lower arm scye as 
in Diagram J. 

Next apply the ))reast measure, from L to T, as 
before shown. Square up from T to U — T to V, 
2i inches — mark from U to Z, one-sixth of breast, 
and ^ inch more — one-half the amount from G 
to Z 2, and draw line out. 

Next, apply the waist measure. Bring back 
waist on B, and mark out waist measure, and 1 
inch more to Y. Bring the ruler on U and Y. and 
draw a line to Z, which we make the point for 
collar. Now mark oxrt from V, for a Single- 
Breasted Coat (say IJ inches), the same amount 
from Y. Having this, then shape the neck to Z 
from Z, shape the lai)el according to the fashion 
of the day, and from this point draw the front line 
through mark at V, and Y, to bottom. Also shai:)e 
the bottom line, and all the rest as shown in Dia- 
gram K. . 

This Diagram also shows the Double-Breasted 



PLATE, IX 




PLATE, X 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



21 



Coat. Mark out fi'oni V, to front, (say 3 inches, 
more or less), the same amount from Y. to front, 
and draw the front line by these marks. Then 
measure in from V', ?r inch less than we^iave marked 
outside, also the same amount from Y, in, and 
di'aw a line for tlie Buttons. 

Tl]e Brock Overcoat. 

This stvle of coits is drafted in the sanr> minner 



as shown in Diagrams A, and B, without any 
change whatever, except tlie measurement, Avhich 
should be taken over the body coat. 

The one-fourth of Y,, and B, whicli we have ap- 
plied in Diagram K, from B, to F, is in Sack Coats 
only. Bear this in mind, and no alteration will be 
needed. 



PLATE X. 



SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE INVERIVESS CAPE, WITH OR WIT HOLT SLEEVES 

AXD ALSO 

HOW TO PRODUCE THE THREE-QUARTJER C1R€L,E OR CAPE. 



This style of Over Coats, known as the Inverness 
•"iape, have been in demand for quite a number of 
years, and although the fashion has drawn the 
garment out of style, it is still worn by some, and 
will be so for some time to come, because it is the 
most comfortable garment for traveling purposes 
ever gotten iip. 

Now this style of Over Coats are generally 
drafted by graduated scales, and the result, no 
dottbt, some have experienced. AYe find that all 
patterns drafted by scales will be above 38 breast, 
a number of sizes too large for the breast for which 
they are intended. The only way to overcome the 
difficulty is to draft out the pattern by actual 
measurement, and in the same manner as we do in 
Fkock and Sack Coats. 

The Measurement. 

This is the same as in frock and sack coats, and 
shotild be taken over the under coat, except breast 
and waist, whicli should be taken over the vest in 
this style of coats. 

We suppose now that the measures are as fol- 
lows : 



4-i 
20 
21 
32 
31 
28 
24 

18" 

36 

33 



Inches Length of Coat. 
" Back balance. 

Front 
" Sleeve length. 
" Cape 

" Arm depth measure. 
" Shoulder " 

" Shoulder Regulator measure. 



" Neck measure. 
Breast 
Waist 
The Ornt't of Diagrani E. 

Draw a line in centre of back as from O to "W — 
square out from O to Y — from O to A, front bal- 
ance, 21 inches — square out from A to front line — 
now from A to C, one-half of shoulder measure, 
12 inches, square C, line up to top — from C to B, 
one-half of A and C, six inches — square B line up 
to D. The distance which we now have from A, 
to B, is 18 inches. 



Now take one-fourth of A and C, or 3 inchc^ 
and apply this, from to I — then from D to J — 
also from D to K. Square these lines as shown in 
Diagi'am. Then mark from J to G, one-sixth of 
breast, which is the same amount, in this case, as 
from D to J, 3 inches — square out to Z. Having 
this, then mark F, in centre of O and D — square 
F line down — then E, in centre of D and F, and 
make a mark. 

Now bring the tape measure on B, and mark 
the back balance, 20 inches, up to * 1 at F line. 

Next apply the Arm-depth Measure — take one- 
half of the measure, 14 inches, and aj^ply this from 
K, down to centre of B and C lines, and make a 
sweep — then apply the same amount from * 1 at F 
line to centre of B and C, and make a sweep also, 
as shown in Frock Coat Diagram A. 

Now bring the sqtiare on centre line of back and 
draw a line out from L, through sweep lines to 
front — mark M, one-fourth of breast (or 4^ inches 
in this case) from line L, and square in to 2. 

Having this, then measure the space between C 
and F lines and mark * in centre at A line, (1^ 
inches from C,) — place the tape on this * and mark 
up back balance, 20 inches, to H, and we have the 
correct length of Back. 

Now sqiiare out from H, to I — from this line 
mark up on I, | inch, for spring- of back — place 
the ruler on mark made liy f inch, and draw a line 
down to N — then apply the measure for full length 
of coat — bring the tape on H, let it run down on 
centre line and mark oft" 44 inches — from this mark 
up to W, one inch, and square out to X. 

Having this, then bring the ruler on E, let it 
rest on the crossing of C M lines, 'and draw a 
line down to bottom of coat, as at 5. Now bring 
the ruler on 2, let it rest on crossing of A, and E^ 
lines, as at 3, and draw a line from 2, to 4. Then 
shape the back from H to I, from I to 2, as shown 
in Diagram — place the tape on I, at top line, let it 
run to bottom of back, and make a sweep fromW, 



22 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



to 4. Next bring the tape on D, and make a sweep 
from 5 to X, for bottom of front. Mark in from 
Q to P, 1^ inch, make a mark — now measnre from 
B to C, and bring one-third of the amount, tAvo 
inches, from B to R, and apply 

The Shoulder Re^nlntor. 

Bring tlie tape on R, let it run up to P, in a 
straight line, bring the amount on R again, and 
measnre np to S, at E line, full measure, 31| inches 
— square S line out by line B — from S to S 2, mark 
the same amount as from Q to P, 1^ inches, and 
square this line in. Mark up from line M to Q, \ 
inch, and draw a line to P. Having this, then 
finish the front part — measui'e out from O on top 
line, one-half of breast, 18 inches — from this i^oint, 
mark out to T, one-fourth of breast, 9 inches, and 
square this line down to bottom. Now mark from 
T to V, li inch— T to X, at bottom 2 inches in all 
cases and sizes — place the ruler on V and X, and 
draw a line from top to bottom. 

Next we commence and shape the front — from 
S 2 at E line we draw a gentle curved line for top 
of front shoulder to K line, as shown in Diagram 
— from crossing of J and K, draw a line for neck 
gorge out to Z. Then shape the arm scye, from 
S, at E line to M, to L, and up to P. Having this, 
then mark in from front line f inch to Z, and also 
the same amount in from T, which we make the 
point for collar. Now shape the front by Z, and 
all the rest as shown in Diagram L, and cut the 
pattern out — -but be careful, and notch front and 
back at A line as at 3, which point miist meet 
when the coat is joined. Now this completes the 
coat with sleeves. 

Diagram L 

Showing the same Draft, without Sleeves. 
Draft the pattei'n as before shown with sleeves, 
and when drafted, then mark down from L line 
to 6, one-sixth of breast, 3 inches — mark centre of 
B and E line, at shoulder seam, and draw a line 
down to 6, as shown by + lines in Diagram. All 
the rest is as before stated. 

Diagram M. 

Showing How to Draft the Cape for the Iiiver- 
ness Cape Coat. 
Place the front part of coat on the pattern paper, 
and draw neck and front by the coat. Bring the 
ruler on crossing of J, K, lines, let it rest in centre 
of S, S 2, at C line, and draw a line to Y. Next, 
bring the tape on K, measure down to U, full 
length of Cape, 31 inches — ^now j^lace the tape 
measure on J, make this point a pivot, and sweep 
from U to Y, and draw a corresponding line from 
U, to front, by a curved ruler, and finish all the 
rest as shown in Diagram. 



Diagram N, 

Showing the Draft of the so-called ''Three- 
Quarter Circle or Cape. 
This style of garments is worn by military 
men, and also by others, over Frock and Sack 
Coats. 

. The Draft. 

Draw a line from D to B — square out 
from D, to K, — mark from D to K, one- 
sixth of breast, 3 inches, and draw line down; 
now take the pattern of the coat, for which 
the Cape is intended, place the back on top line, 
as at K — then bring the front part to back, so that 
shoulder seam of coat will rest in a closing posi- 
tion, front shoulder point resting on K line, back 
at top line — B,D, line of coat running parallel with 
B, D, line of cape, and in that position draw a line 
in centre of back by the j)attern, as from K to Y 2. 
Shape the neck by the pattern as from K, to Z — 
and also from Z, down in front. Having this, then 
take the pattern off — mark down from D to J, 3 
inches in all cases, and make this point a pivot. 
Next mark length of cape from K, to U, (say 31 
inches). Bring the tape on point J, or pivot, and 
sweep from U, to Y 2, or centre of back, as shown 
in Diagram. Now draw a corresponding line from 
U to front, as in Inverness Cape, and cut the pat- 
tern out. 

Diagram 0. 

Showing the Draft of Collar. 
Draw a line from 1, to 3, — square uj) fi'om 1, to 
2, — mark i;p from 1, to O, 1^ inches, and from 
0, to 2, (say 2 inches). Now measure the neck of 
coat, 9 inches — bring 9 inches fi'om 1, to 3, — mark 
width of Collar fj-om 3, to 4, (say 2f inches) more 
or less — mark up in centre of 1, and 3 (say 1 inch) 
— ^then commence and shape the Collar from 1, to 
mark by 1 inch, to 3 — from 0, to 3 — and from 2 to 
4, as shown in Diagram. 

Drafting the Sleeve. 

IMeasure the arm scye — bring f inch inore than 
\ of arm scye measure from S, E, line down below 
M, and make this the point for front sleeve seam, 
(as at Q, Diagram A). Also measure from K, to 
this mark, same as in frock or sack — note the 
measures down, and draft the Sleeve in the same 
manner as in frock or sack coats, as shown in Dia- 
gram E, with only one exception, and this is : — 
Measure the disfcince from M, to point of front 
Sleeve seam, on front part, and whatever the 
amount may be, apply this in the draft of Sleeve, 
as from A, to B, Diagram E. 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



23 



THE PATTERN SYSTEM. 



The System, ;is herein laid down, will be found 
the most simple and reliable method of drafting 
Ijatterns for the Ready-made Trade ever gotten up 
and presented to the trade. The difhculty gene- 
rally exjierienced by the Breast Measure System, 
whereby all sizes above 38 breast will be too large, 
and below 35 too small for the intended breast, is 
herein overcome. 

The principle on which the pattern system is 
based as laid down in the Actual Measurement, 
and the drafting is also ilhistrated by the saine 
Diagrams as therein given and explained. 

In the annexed 



"Cutting- Table of Proiiortioiis" 

will be found tlie principal measures for each size 
of breast, which we have to apply for the various 
points of Diagrams. The arrangement of figures 
in this Table are very simple, so that any Cutter 
can use it at once. The first line of figures give 
the breast from 24 to 48 ; the second line of figures 
the distance from A to B ; the third line the dis- 
tance from B to D ; the fourth line of figures the 
distance from D to L, or bottom of arm scye ; the 
fifth and sixth lines, the length of sleeve for each 
size of breast ; and will be fully illustrated in the 
next draft. 



Diagram A. 

SHOWING DRAFT OF A 36 SIZE FROCK PATTERN. 



Draw line from to — square from A to Y. 
Now apply the measures as given in the Cutting 
Table, opposite figure 18, or Breast measure, as 
follows : From A to B, 12 inches, square up to D 
— B to D, %)\ inches, and square out to K — D to 
L (or bottom of arm scye), 12^ inches — square from 
L, through mark to V, in front, and we have the 
principal lines for the pattern. 

Now mark from D to K, one-fourth of A and B, 3 
inches — measure from B to K, 2()f inches, and bring 
this from B to H, for length of Back. Mai'k from 
B line to J, one-third of A and B, 4 inches — J to 
C, f inch in all sizes — square up from C to g — 
apply one-half of B and C (2f inches), from H to 
I, also from D to G, and square out to U — place 
the ruler on crossing of L and B lines, let it rest 
on H, and mark for N. Square out fi'om P, through 
N to M — draw a line from M to K — mark width of 
back as from 1 and 2— from A to W, one-eighth of A 
and H (more or less, according to fashion) — square 
out from W t > X — mark width of back from A to 
4 — bring | inch above I, for spring of back. Now 
shape the l^ack, from H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 
1, and from 1 through 4, to bottom, according to 
fashion or fancy. Having this, then mark up from 
L on C line, one-fourth of breast (4^ inches), and 
from that point one-eighth of breast to S — bring 
the tape on ]M, and sweei^ out from S. 

Now, here I must say, that whenever the shoul- 
der seam of back is drawn higher up than ^th of 
breast at line(\ then deduct the amount from | 



of breast, and bring point S so much farther down 
— and so mee versa. Next bring the tape on 
point 1, and sweep from bottom line of back out 
to 6— apply i inch less than one fourth of A and 
B, (2| inches), from 4 to 5— mark | inch in 
all sizes between back and side body, at line L. 
Having this, then cut the back out and finish 
the side body by these points, 5 and f inches, in 
the same manner as shown in actual measurement. 
Diagram B. Then draw a line for width of side 
body, as from line L, to 7 to 9,— mark ^ inch in 
all sizes from 7 to 8, and shape side line of front, 
through 8 to bottom. Now finish the bottom line 
of side body as shown in actual measurement, — 
also the front shoulder and arm scye, as before 
shown in Diagram B. Mark Q one-fourth of L 
and P, from line L, up— apply the breast measure 
from L to T— square up to U— T to V, 2^ inches in 
all sizes — square down from V to bottom — mark 
^ inch out fi-om this line to Y— U to Z, one- sixth 
of breast and ^ inch more— G to Z 2 one-half the 
amount. Having this, then finish the whole as 
shown in actual measurement in Diagrams A and 
B. 

Then measure upper and lower arm scye as 
before shown, and draft the sleeve by these mea- 
sures as in Diagrs. E andF. Apply the measures 
as given in the "Cutting Table," from centre of 
back to elbow, 20 inches, to O, or full length of 
sleeve, 32i inches— allow i inch for seams ; and 
square by L and T foi" bottom. 



24 



THE GUTTER AND GUIDE. 



Diagram J. 



SHOWING THE DRAFT OF 

In giving the necessary instruction for the draft 
of sack coats, we will take the 4()-inch breast, and 
by so doing we show the working of the Cutting 
Table more fully. 

The Orart. 

Draw line from O to AV— square out from A to 
Y— from A to B, 13^ inches— square up to D— from 
B to D, 21| inches— from D to L, 13^ inches- 
square out from L, through mark to V in fronts 
D to K, one-foui-th of A and B, 3^ inclies. Now 
measure from B to K, (22 inches), add | inch in 
-ill sizes of Sack coats, and bring the full amount 
(22f inches in this case), from B to H— square out 
to I— from B to J, one-third of A and B,(4| inches). 
J to C, f incli- square up from C to 8. Then take 
one-half of B and 0(2^^ inclies), add one seam and 
apply this from H to I, also from D to G, and 
square out to U. Now mark N, by H and cross- 
ing of L and B— square out from P, through N to 
M— draw a line from M to K. Next mark width 
of back or slioiilder drop. (See explanation of 
actual measurement). Take one-half of L and P, 
(more or less), fn^m N t > 2-:u.irk out fi'om 2, for 



SACK-COAT FATTERNS. - 

pitch of back (say | incli) — also mark | inch for 
spriiag of liack alcove I. Now shaj)e the back, from 
H to I, from I to 2, from 2 to 1. Next mark full 
length of coat from H to W, (say 32 inches), square 
out from W to front— mark width of l)ack from W 
to X, (say G| inches). Having this, then shape the 
side seam of back, from 1 to X, to fancy or fashion. 

Next bring one-fourth of breast (5 inches) from 
L up on line C — from this point one-eighth of 
breast (2|^ inches), to S. 

Now, whatever the shoulder seam of back may 
be above the mark of \ the lu'east, deduct the 
amount from S, and bring this point so much 
lower down. Sweep out from S, by M. Ajiply 
the breast measure from L to T, square up to U — 
T to V, 24- inches — square from \ to Y — draw a 
line by U and Y, to Z — U to Z one-sixth of breast 
and \ inch more — G to Z 2, one-half the amount. 
Now finish the front shoulder, arm scye, and neck, 
as shown in actual measurement — then shape the 
front to fashion or fancy. Next mark from 5 
to 6 (say \\ inch), (see actual measurement), and 
shape the side of front part from 1 tlirough 6, to 
X, and all tlie rest as before shown in Diagram J. 



Diagram K. 

THE DRAFT OF OVER-COATS. 



The Drafting in thisDiagram is the same as in 
Diagram J, or body sack, and does not need any 
further explanation. 

The only insti-uctions which are needed we find 
in the following jioints : 

First: The Over Coat does need a longer back 
on top, as from L to H, than the Body Sack. The 
extra allowance which we nuike in under sack is f 
inch ; in over sack we make tlie allowauce, above 
B and K, $ incli. 

Second: The Over Coat needs more fullness on 



bottom, therefore we must make the allowance as 
shown in actual measurement, from X to 7. 

Tliird : By drafting an Over Coat liy the same 
breast as in Diagram J, 40 inches, we will have a 
pattern which will fit a man of 38 breast. 

This shows that the Over Coat does need two 
inches more in width than the undercoat, to tit 
the same person. All the rest of drafting is as 
shown in Diagram J, and as exj)lained in actual 
measurement. 



Diagram L- 

THE DRAFT OF IN\'ERNESS CAPE OVERCOAT. 



Draw a line from O to \V— square out from O 
to V— now mark (for a 36 breast) from O to A, 20i 
inches. Square out from A to front— A to C, 12 
inches, square up to top line— C to B, one-half of 
A and C, 6 inches, square up to D— D to L, | inch 
more in all sizes than the amount given in the 
' ' Cutting Table, "13 inches. Now take one-fourth 
of A and C (3 inches), and '>i-lng this from to I, 
also from D to J, and fn^m J to G, also from I) to 
K— square all these lines— mark F, in centre of O 
and D— E, in]centre of F and D— D to T, one-half 
breast ('!) inches) -T to A', I J inch in all sizes - 



mark M, one-fourth of l)reast from L — square in 
to 2. Now mark one-third of C and B, (2 inches) 
from C, otit, and make a mark — from this point 
measure up to K, (21i inches), and bring the 
amount from mark to H, length of back — square 
out, mark | inch above this line for spring of 
back — from G to S 2, one-third of G, and D. 
Having all these points, tlien finish the draft by 
these points, as shown in actual measurement. 

The Cape is di'afted in the same manner as be- 
fore shown, also the Sleeve and Collar, and do(^s 
not need further explanation. 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



25 



piT 



^' 



t|UTTING |ABLE OF f ROPORTIONS 

FOR 

Drafling Coat and Vest Patterns 

FOR THE 

READY-MADE TRADE. 



m 

CS 

to 
i 

5 


o 

-< 

s 
i 

Q> 
1 

•f-t 

p 


P 

o 

-^ 

a 

o 

QJ 
O 

C3 
X! 

ft 


h4 

o 

p 

o 

-/) 
P 


Length of Sleeve from 
centre of Back to El- 
bow. 


Full length of Sleeve 
from centre of Back 

to (),' Diagram E. 

* 


1—! 

in 

P 


INCHES. 


INCHES. 


INCHES. 


INCHES. 


INCHES. 


INCHES. 


12 

13 
14 
15 

16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 


8i 

9i 

9| 

lOi 

101 

Hi 

12 

12f 

13i 

13f 

14i 

14f 


14 

15i 
16i 
17f 
18t 
IQi 
20^ 
21i 
21f 
22i 
22i 
23f 
24 


8f 
9i 

Hi 
lit 

m 

12f 
13i 
13f 

Hi 

14f 

1-H 


. 14 
15 
151 
IGi 
171 
19i 
20 
20f 

m 

21f 
221 
22f 
23 


21i 

23i 

25 

26f 

29 

311 

m 

33i 
34i 

351 
35f 
3Gi 




PLATE XI 







THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



27 



H 



J 





The System as liereiu given, is on the same plan 
as the Coat System, and will provide for all the 
various forms of tJie human hody which the 
Cuttei'may be called on to measure and draft for. 

The Measurement is the same as explained in 
the measurement of Coats — except that we must 
add length of Collar, full length of Vest in 
front, and also full length at hip — which will be 



fully shown in the measurement below, and also 
in the draft of Diagram P. 

Now, with these few lines of introduction and 
explanation of measurement, the Author advises 
all those who intend to study and practice the 
new principles, to follow out the instructions as 
herein given, and if you thus do, a trial Avill be 
sufficient to show that the System will do all which 
we have al)Ove stated, and you will become a 
hearty indorser of this valuable System. 



PLATE XI, 



The Meaiiiiireiiieiit. 

The measures, as we have before stated, are 
taken in the same manner as in Coats, and sujj- 
pose that they are as follows for a single-breasted 
Vest : 19l inches Back Balance. 
•20i " Front Balance. 
26| " Armdeptli. 
23^ " Shoulder measure. 
7^ " Back AVaist measure. 
31" " Shoulder Regulator. 
14 " Length of Collar. 
■26* " Fulllengthof Vest. 
23* " Full length at hip. 
36 " Breast. 
31 " Waist. 

DIAGRAM P. 

The Draft of a Single-Breasted Vest. 

Draw line O, to O — square out from A, to Y — 
now notice front and back lialance, same as in 
Coat. (See Explanation of Shoulder Measure, 
page 11 ). Now take one-half of shoulder measure 
(Hi inches) and bring this from A, to B — from B, 
to C, one inch in all sizes — square Tip from C to D 
— apply front balance from C, to D (20* inches), 
and square out to U. Now apply back waist 
measure from A to E — then measure from E to B, 
divide this in four parts, and bring one part from A 
to F, (one inch). Now apply back waist measure 
again from F to G, and make a mark. Bring the 
tape measure on G, and apply back balance 19* 
inches, with \ inch added for seams, from G to H 
— square out to I. Having this, then take the 
distance from A to B, divide the amount in four 
equal jiarts, and apply one part, (2t inches, ) from 
H to I — then from D to J — also from D to K. 
Now apply the arm depth measure, take one-half 
(13i inches) and bring this from K to P, make a 
sweep line — then from II to P, and make a sweep 
line also. Bring the squar,^ on centre line of 
back, and draw a line from L tlirougli sweep at 
P, to V, in the same manner as Coat Diagram A. 
Having this line, then mark \\i) from line L to N, 
one-fourth of A and B— mark f inch up from I, 
for spring of back — place the ruler on this mark, 
and point N, and draw shoulder line of back. 

Tlie next line we must find is line M : Take 
one-half of A and B, (.H inches), and api)ly this 



from line C, to M, and square up — diaw a line 
from L and C to K. Now, having established all 
these points, we go on and apply 

"The Shoulder Regulator." 

Place the tape on G, let it run up in a direct line 
to R, top of back shoulder seam — bring the a- 
mount on B, and then up in a direct line to S, 
full length of measure, 31 inches, and make a 
mark— place the rule on S, let it rest on crossing 
of J K lines, and draw a line out. 

Having all these points and lines, we then com- 
mence and tinish the Back. Draw a line from H 
to L, through F, to bottom, for centre of back — 
then from H to I, or mark for spring of back — 
tinish the shoulder seam to R— then from R, fin- 
ish the arm scye to P, or side line of back 
and front, wliich line may be drawn to 
fancy (say centre of Mand C)— mark out from G, 
1\ inch for seams and ease. Now commence, and 
draw side line from P, through mark at waist, to 
Z, at bottom— as shown in Diagram. 

Next hnish the Front : Bring one-half of 
In-east measure from L to T— from T to V, 2 
inclies in all cases— square up from T to U, from 
Udraw a line to V, by which line we form the 
front line cf vests which shall button up very 
high. Having this, then apply the waist measure 
— ^^liring the Ikk'Iv waist measure on B, mark out 
to Y, one-half of waist, 15* inches, and allow for 
one .seam in front. 

Then apply the measure for length of vest :— 
take the tape, measure from D to J— place the 
amount on front shoulder point, and measui'e to 
A', length of collar, 14 inches— then to W, full 
length'of vest, 20* inches, and allow for steams- 
then to X, length'of hip, 23* inches, and allow 
for seams also. Having all these points, then 
shape the front— draw a line from \, through Y, 
to bottom, also a corresponding line for lap of 
button side- shape the point for collar, and draw 
a line for neck, from K line to V. Next draw a 
a line from P, through B, to X— also from X to 
AV— then shape bottom line of back, and cut the 
back out. Bring the back on top of front shoul- 
der ; let point I'rest on K J line, and in that po- 
sition, finish the front ann • scye, by the 
back— then shape the front shoulder from ami 
scve to K line.— and all the rest as shown in Dia- 
liiam P. and according to the fashion of the day. 



28 



THE GUTTER AND OUIDE. 



PLATE XII. 



DIAGRAM Q. 



Nhowiii^ the different i^tyleisi of Vest. 

In this Diagram we show the draft of tlie dif- 
ferent styles of Vests,— the Single Breasted, to 
button close iip to the neck, — the Double Breast- 
ed to button way up, — and also the Double 
Breasted with long rolling collar. 

Diagram Q is drafted in the same manner as 
shown in Diagram P ; and whatever the style 
may be, which the Cutter may wish to draft, the 
change must be in front, as from V, Y and W. 

We will show these changes by three Diagrams: 

DIAGRAM E. 

Single Breasted Yc-sf, fo button close i/jj to necTi. 

We suppose now, that we haA'e made the draft 
as in Diagram P, with the exception that the 
front line, from V to W, has to be drawn. 

Now commence and juark, from D to Q, one- 
third of breast, 6 inches — square out to Z. Hav- 
ing this, then shape the neck to front line at Z — 
from this i^oint draw front line to V, to Y, to W 
and we have the side for tlie button holes ; then 
draw a line outside for the button side, or lap, as 



in Diagi'am P. j\Iark in from front line at Z, to 
point of collar (say I inch) and the draft is fin- 
ished. 

DIAGRAM S. 

Sltoiciiiij (lie Drujt of iltc Double Breasted Vest, to 
button close tip to the neck. 
This style of A'est is drafted as shown in Dia- 
gram K. Draw front line, from Z to AY. Now 
draft the Lapel. Mark on toj), (say 2 inches), 
— at V line (say 2^ inches) — at Y line (say 2 
inches, more or less) — and shape the Lapel, as 
shown in Diagram, according to fashion or fancy. 

DIAGRAM T. 

Showiiif/ the Draft of the Double Breasted Vest, with 
lour/ roUiiiff Collar. 

Mark length of Collar to measure or fancy — 
mark out from Y (say '2i inches) — at bottom (say 
1| inch, more or less) — and draw a line by these 
marks — then draw a line down for neck — finish 
the bottom to fashion. 

Next draw a line for Buttcms, tV inch less than 
we have marked outside of Y and W, and hnish 
the rest as shown in Diagram. 



The Pattern System, 

DIAGRAM P. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF A 36-SIZE VEST PATTERN. 



Draw line to O — square out from A to Y. (See 
Cutting [Table of Proportions, page 25). Mark 
from A to B 12 inches — B to C, one inch in all 
sizes — square up to D — from B to D 20^ inches — 
square out to U — D to L, 12^ inches — square out 
from L, through mark to V — apply one-half of 
A and B, from line C, to M — square up from M. 
Now mark at waist, from A to F, i inch — from F. 
to G, or side line of Back, one-half breast, 9 
inches. From C, measure up to D, (20i inches), 
and bring the amount from G to H, allow one 
seam above H, and square out to I- Then take 
one-fourth of A and B. 'S inches, and ajiply this 
from H to I — from D to K — I) to J — also from 
line L, to N. Mark up from I. f inches for 
spring of back — 'place the ruler on this mark, and 
N, and draw line for shoulder seam of back. 
Now take one-half of line L, and D, (6^ inches), 
add J inch in all cases to this ^, and bi'ing it from 
M to S — phice the ruler on L and K, and draw a 
line up, also from S to K, J, line. 

Now apply the breast measure from L to T — 
from T to V, 2 inches. Square up from T to U — 
from U draw a line to V. Mark length of front. 
This of course is regulated by fashion, and must 
be made accordingly. For a guide, we will say. 
bring ^d of breast (6 inches), i'rom Y to AN' — and 



one-sixth, oi' :? inches, from B to X, and draw the 
bottom line by these points — mark out from B, 
-J- inch less than one-half breast, (8-J inches). 

Having now ail these points, then commence 
and finish tlie di-ift Siiape centre of back from 
H to L, through F to bottom. Then from R to P 
— from P, through G, to Z. Now cut the back 
out and bring it on top of front shoulder, and 
finish as Vtefore stated in actual measurement. 
Draw arm scye to P — from P, finish side line to 
B, to X. Then draw line for liottom of back as 
shown in the Diagram. Next finish the neck, 
from J K lines to point of collar, then from V, 
through Y, to \V — and all the rest as shown in 
actual measurement. 

In regard to the draft of the different styles of 
Vests, as in Diagiams Q, 11. S and T, this is done 
in the same manner as before stated, and does 
not need further explanation. 

Having shown this draft of a 36 size, we will 
say that, providing the Cutter will use " T7/e 
Cutting Table of Proportions,''^ and follow the 
instruction as heivin given, he will jn'oduce a set 
of Patterns which are equal to any that he may 
order from pattern establishments. 

And bv this the Vest Svstem is ended. 




PLATE, XII 





Dia^Ji: Q. 





THE 
SELF-BALANCING 

PANTALOON SYSTEM. 



In the present improved Pantaloon System, which is introduced by these lines, the Anthor 
claims that he has brought out and developed in a condensed form the most Complete, Correct, 
and Simplified, Self-Eegulatixg Pantaloon System ever gotten up. 

In it the Cutter will lind the whole ground plan upon wliich true Pantaloon Cutting is based, 
and the only correct principles by which a correct Dra^t will l)e produced for all the various forms 
of the human body for which the Cutter may be called upon to provide a covering. 

The system provides for all the so-called slim bodied, straight-legged, bow-legged, knock-kneed, 
and pot-belly forms, and is fully illustrated by three Plates of Diagr ams, with full instruction 
how to draft. 



The Aiithor advises all to follow out the instruction as herein laid down in each lesson, 
if so, the System cannot fail, to give entii-e satisfaction to all who may use it. 



and 



FIGURE 3. 

ILLUSTRATION OF POINTS AND MEASUREMENT. 



The first important step toward successful Pan- 
taloon Cutting is, that we must have a correct 
measui'ement. We must know the exact length 
and dimensions of the form for which we are 
called upon to jorovide a covering. 

We must bear in mind, that unless the mea- 
sures are correct, the garment cut according to 
them cannot be correct. 

Therefore we say, too much care cannot be ta- 
ken when the tape measure is applied to the 
body. 

But before we apply the tape measure we 
should make it our rule and ascertain the follow- 
ing points : 

First: See that the pantaloons the customer 
wears are close up in fork, so they will not inter- 
fere with the tape, when applied from these 
points. 

Second: Ascertain the style in which your 
customer j)refers them ; then we find that most 
gentlemen have their own style and likings, in 
regard to height of waist and to the amount of 
material they prefer at difl'erent parts. 

Having done so, then we commence and mark 
our points as shown in Figure 3. 

First, make a mark on top of side seam, or, 
rather, where the waistband shall join the top of 
side seam, as at A. Having this point, then bring 
the arm of square flat against this mark ; let the 
other arm of square rest in front, as at D. Now, 
as the square reats in that position, being in a 
horizontal line with the body, or, in other words, 
level with the floor, then make a mark in front 
for top of fly line, as at D. Having these points, 
then we go on and show 

THE ]«EASUREME\T. 



Let A be the starting point — measiire from A to 

B, full length of side seam, say 41i, inches. Then 
from D, down in front of fly to bottom of inside 
seam as at C, say 41 inches. Next, place the 
tape measure close up in fork, let it run down to 

C, and take full length of Leg, say 31|^ inches. 
Then apply the tape around the bottom, as 
shown by E, and measure according to fancy 
or fashion, say 17 inches. Next measure the 
Knee, as shown by F, line, also according to fancy 
or fashion, say 17 inches. Tlie next measure is 
the Thigh, as shown by G. Now here we must 
sax, as that measure is intended to prove the 
Fork i^oints, we advise all Cutters to use the ut- 
most care, and have the measure correct, other- 
wise it would be best not to take it at all. 

Bring the tape between the legs, then close up 
in fork, and then around the non-dress side of 
leg in a straight line with fork in a close-fitting 
manner, so it will show the actual size of leg, say 
21 inches. Next take the Seat measure, as shown 
by S. This measure should be taken over the 
most prominent part, and furthermore, moderate- 
ly tiglit, very much in the same way as you would 
take the Breast measure for a Coat — bring the 
tape around the body and note the amount, say 
36 inches — next take the Hip measure as shown 
by H, line— and this should be taken around the 
most prominent part of Hip, say 34 inches — next 
take the Waist measure as shown by K, say 30 
inches. 

The next and last measure is the Balance Mea- 
sure. Bring the tape between the legs, pull it up 
close in fork, let one end of the tape rest on A, 



33 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



and then bring the other end of the tape to the 
same point, as sliown by L lines, say 32 inches. 
NoTK : This nieasiire shonld be taken in a 
close-litting manner, and Avitli care. 

This concludes the nieasnienient, snninicd np 
as follows : 

\\\ inches Side length. 



41 




Front 


L h 


3U 




Leo- 


U 


17 




Bottom 


measure 


17 




Knee 




21 




Thigh 




3(i 




Seat 




34 




Hip 




30 




Waist 


u 


32 




Balance 


'• 



We have now taken tlie measurement. We 
will next turn our attention to the System, and 
to the figure which we have to cover My object 
in doing so is to show the fundamental princij^les 
nijon which the System is based and that it con- 
tains the different points and lines as most readi- 
ly foimd on the form, and also to show you these 
principles as distinguished from the jnlnciples of 
other systems. Cutters who give their attention 
and study to Pantaloon Cutting are in general 
very much divided in opinion as to which is the 
proper location for the base or construction line. 
N(.)w some cutters will say, 'draw your side line 
of front (as from O, to 0, Diagr U) and by this 
square out from l)ottom, fork, and top line, and 
finish the draft V)y those lines.' But this we find 
is entirely wrong and does not meet with the 
form of leg and body — it will shorten the bottom 
of inside seam f inch (as at J, Diagr U) bring the 
fork line 1 inch up, and lengthen the top of fly 
1\ incli and therefore give openness to the legs, 
of 8 inches, which amount they will sjjread apart 
at 1)ottom when made up. 



Then again, some Cutters will say : mark out 
at fork line from side of front, \ of seat, and at 
bottom one-sixth of seat, then draAv your base line 
(as at K, F, line) and from this square lines at 
right angle. Now we must confess that this class 
of Cutters come very near to the point, Init it is 
true also, that this line must change from \ of 
seat, and does not hold good in all cases. Again, 
some Cutters claim that by applying \ of seat, 
from side line out to centre of fork, and at bot- 
tom \ of seat ont to centre of leg (as at line I and 
X) that this would be the only safe rule to follow 
and work ont the draft. Now here we must say. 
This will hold good in some cases, but not in all. 

But we admit now, that either of these lines 
could lie'made the base line, and by adopting 
certain modifications in one of them, the same re- 
sidt might be produced as in Diagram U. But if 
we take a glance at the figure, or form of body, 
(whicli is the main subject of our lesson), we will 
find that a line d.rawn from top of liy to the in- 
side of leg, (as at C, Figure 3), will be the most 
reliable and certain base line which we can either 
adopt or find — and this line we have in the draft 
of Diagram U. 

AVe will therefore set up the following points 
which we intend to prove in the first draft : 

1st, We jtrove that L D is the most i»roper and 
relial)le base line. 

2d, That this base line will bring the bottom of 
panfs at right angle or level" with the fioor. 

3d, Tills l)ase line will show how far the side 
line has to be drawn in at liottom from the plumb 
line so that it will meet the form of leg. 

4th, We prove the value of the front length 
measiire. 

5th, We also prove the value of the thigh 
measure, if correctly taken and apjilied. 



PLATE XIII. 

SHOWING THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLES OF THE SYSTEM. 



Now liefore we show these principles I want it 
understood that this is not the System which I 
am to lay before you for daily' practice ; this we 
do in Diagram Y. 

Tlierefore, any Cutter who should not feel in- 
clined to investigate this matter may turn direct 
to Diagram V, where he will find the actual Sys- 
tem for daily practice. 

Dingrnin I'. 

Draw a perpendicular line on side as shown by 
dark line — square out to L. Tlien mark off side 
length from top to bottom 41^ inches — square out 
at bottom to X — mark out to D, one-half of seat 



measure 9 inches — also the same amount out on 
top to L. Now place a long ruler on L and D, 
and draw a line down, and we have our base line, 
which w ill meet with the form, as from D to C, 
Figure 3 — and this will prove our 1st point which 
we have set up. Then mark from D to G, leg- 
measure 31i inches— G to C, one-fourth of seat, 
A.\ inches — square in from C to B — mark from D 
to O one-third of bottom measure, 5f inches. 
Now bring ruler on O and B and draw a line as 
from O to and we have the actual side line of 
front part— and by this we prove our 3d point, 
showing that the side line is drawn 3f inches from 
the plumb line at bottom— and furthermore, 




PLATE, XIII 



Rf^^s 




o 



Bf 




Y T D IT :e 



tT^- 





THE CUTTER AXD GUIDE. 



33 



sliould we square oiir bottom and top by this 
line it would shorten the inside seam at D ^ inch 
and lengthen the top at L 1^ inch. Having 
sliown these points we go on and mark in from 
C to E one-fourth of waist 3f inches — mark F iii 
centi'e of O and I), then bring rulei' on these 
l^oints and draw a line from K through E to F 
and we have the line, wliich, when the pants are 
made up, will fall directly over the knee and rest 
upon the instep. Now as we have drawn this 
line it will i^rove at once that it does not meet 
with \ of set at fork line as above stated by some 
Cutters, and only does when the waist is the same 
amount as seat measure. Having shown this, 
then mark one-fourtli of bottom measure 4^ inch- 
es from F to J. Then measure from O to J and 
bring \ inch more than one-half out from O 
to U — next mark centre of U and D as shown by 
* — bring the tape on * and sweep out from G to 
S, and also into T. Having this then mark the 
fork points, bring one-eighth of seat 2^ inches, 
from Ct to H, and mark N in centre — from N, 
mark out one-eight of Seat to S, which we make 
the point for underside or back. Now mark 
centre of Hand S as shown liy word ^^Cc/ifre,''' 
and draw a plumb line down to X, wliich is now 
the actual centre point of Fork between front and 
back — from this centre point mark in one-third 
of seat, G inches, to T. and we are prepared to 
prove those points by the Thigh measure, which 
we find calls for 21 inches. Take one-third of 
this measure, 7 inches, and apply it as follows : 
Measure from T to H, oj inches, bring the 
amount, o^ inches, on N, and extend the tape out 
to S, and we will find the whole amount which 
we now liave is li inches, or ^ inch more than 
one-third Thigh, and being allowance for seams. 
Tliis will show* that the points as already estab- 
lished l)y seat measure does correspond with the 
Thigh measure. 

But here I must say, that, whenever a dispro-' 
portion should exist between the Thigh and Seat 
measure, then divide the difference and take tlie 
centre between them. For instance, if these 
points T, H, N, S, as established by Seat, should 
be as above li inches, and the Thigh measure 
should call for 24 inches, one- third of which 
would be with i incli allowance for seams, 8i 
inches — here we would have one inch more Thigh 
than Seat for those points, whicli we would apply 
as follows : "We would take i inch and add J 
inch to II, and i inch to S, which points we bring 
that amount furtlier out, and draw our fork lines 
by those points. This includes also cases in re- 
veise where the Thigh is less than Seat; mark one- 
half tlie ditfereuce in from H and S, and draw the 



fork lines by these points. ISTow this will prove 
our 5th point, the Value of the Thigh measure. 

But this measure will show more than this, as 
above stated. If we would apply the remaining 
two-thirds of Thigh from those points where we 
have applied the one-third for fork points, say 
one-third or 7 inches from N to 2 — then from 2 
to side line of front and back again to T, we ^^•ill 
have the two-thirds and If inches more, or in all 
15| inches. Now add one-third and 4- inch of 
fork points to this and we have the full Tliigli 
measure and 2^ inches more for seams and ease 
for the wearer. This, of course, is not necessary 
that we must apply the full Thigh. The princi- 
pal point is at fork, where the points established 
by Seat should correspond with the one-third 
Thigh. 

Having explained this more in length tlian we 
intended to do we go on and finish the draft. 

Draw aline from T to U, — also from J to ^ inch 
inside of H. Then find the Knee line, apply one- 
half of leg measure 15f inches from D up, and 
make a mark ; from this mark bring 2^ inches in 
all cases up to Knee line, and square across. 
Now apply one-fourth of Knee measure 4^ inches 
from '■• at T, U, line out to V, and make a mark — 
from this mark V apply one-lialf Knee measure 
into AV, and allow i iilch for seams at this point, 
and make a mark. 

Having the.se points, then apply one-fourtli of 
waist measure, 3f inches, from K to M and make 
a mark — then from K to L, and allow one seam at 
that point. 

Next finish tlie top line — We have drawn a 
square line from O to L, but this is not what we 
call the top line of front ; this we must now find. 
Apply the front length measure, 41 inches in the 
measurement, from D to L, and make a mark. 
Having this, then place the ruler on M, top of 
side lengtli, let it rest on L, and draw top line 
out — and by this we prove our 4th point, the 
value of front length measure. 

Now, as we have all these points, we go on and 
finish the front — shape the fly line for nou-dress 
side from L to H — then from H, draw a gentle 
curved line to Y, or mark made liy Knee measure, 
then to J at bottom — mark out one inch from II 
to I — then shape the fly line of dress side from 
L to I, and from I draw a gentle curved line 
down, as shown in Diagram. Next finish tlie 
side line from M to B, to A, through W, to bot- 
tom at O — also shape the bottom according to 
fancy or fashion, and the whole as shown in 
Diagram U — and our first Draft is finished. 

In regard to the .shaping of side line below A. 
this is not absolutely necessary, and may be 



34 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



left straight from A to O. This is only a matter 
of taste, and the Cutter may choose for himself 
■\vhicli plan he will adopt. 

But in the tio-ht-titting pants, I])refer the shap- 
ing of the side line to the lorni of the leg. 

Now, as we have shown the ground plan of the 



System, and the working of tlie different mea- 
sures in the draft, and also have proved our 
points as set up in the introduction of Diagram 
U, we are ready to take up our next diagram and 
show how to draft direct to the material, and lay 
before you the System for daily practice. 



PL.ATE XIV. 

Diagram V. 



Draw a line along the edge of the material, as 
rej)resented by O O line — but, if possible, then 
draw tins line one inch from the edge at bottom 
so that the inside seam of leg will not be too 
much on the bias. By this line square out to M 
— and we now proceed by tlip same measures as 
given in Diagram U. 

Measure from top or M line down to O, side 
length, and allow one seam for toj), {41| inches) — 
from to A, length of leg, and one seam ( 31 J inches) 
— A to B, one-fourth of seat measure, [\\ inches ) — 
bring the square on side line, angle resting on B, 
and make a mark at C — B to C, one-half seat, and 
i inch in all cases. (9^ inches). Then mark out 
at bottom, O to D, one-third of bottom measure, 
5f inches. (Now here I must say, whenever the 
bottom is more than one-half seat, as will lie the 
case in large spring bottoms, then in all such ca- 
ses take one-third of seat fiom O to D). Having 
tliose points, then bring tlic ruler onDandO, and 
draw a line from L, through C. to D, which is 
now the construction line, by whicli we square 
all the horizontal lines across — i)lace the square 
on this line, let arm rest on mark made by side 
length at O, and transfer the liottom line through 
D, to J — then place the square on construction 
line at C, let arm rest on B, and draw a line from 
B to C. 

Now mark from C to E, one-l'ourtli of waist, 
Hf inches — mark F in centre of ( ) and D — bring 
ruler on F and E. and diaw a line from K 
through E to F. Then apjily onc-loiirth of bot- 
tom measure from F to .1, and make a maik. 
Next measure from () t(i .1, take one-half of the 
amount, add \ inch in all cases, and In'ing this 
from to U — mark centre of U and D and make 
a mark as shown by *. Then ap])]y the tape 
measure from D, mark up one-half leg measure 
and make a mark — then to G, length of leg, and 
allo\v \ inch for seam — then to L, front length 
measure, and allow one seam, (41^ inches). 
Then mark one-fourth of waist, BJ inches, from 
K to M — the same amount from K to L, and allow 
one seam at that point. Now i)lace the luler on 
to^i of side seam, as at M, let it rest on L, and draw 
top line frtim L, through ]\I, to (_) — next place 



the ta])e cm * in centre of U and D, and sweep 
from (t to S and T. Having this line then mark 
the fork point — from G to H, one-eighth of Seat 
2^ inches, and mark N in centre — then apply one- 
eighth of Seat, from N to S, and mark I in cen- 
tre — from centre at I mark in to T, one-third of 
Seat, 6 inches, and make a mark. Then prove 
these points by the Thigh measure — take one- 
third of Thigh, 7 inches, measure from T to H — 
bring the amount on N and measure to S, and 
allow i inch for seams, 7i inches — (See Diagram 

r.) 

Now draw a line from T to U, which line we 
make the centre of leg. Next draw a line \ inch 
inside of H down to J. Di aw knee line 2^ inches 
above maikmade l)y one-half leg measure. INIark 
out from * at T U line to V, one-fourth of knee 
measure, 4^ inches — from V mark in to AA", one- 
half of knee, and allow half inch for seams, 9 
inches. Having all these points, then com- 
mence and hnish the front — draw tly line frcm 
mark at waist to centi'e of C and G, then curve 
out to H — fi'om H draw a gentle curved line 
through \ to bottom. Now mark out from H to 
I, one inch, and by this we form the Hy and leg 
seam for dress side — draw a corresponding line 
f rom L to I, (or one inch) and then down, as 
shown in Diagram. Then finish the side line 
from ;M through B to A, through W to bottom- 
also finish the bottom as shown in Diagram, and 
tlie whole according to fancy or fashion. 

Now (Jut the front out, and this brings us to 

The Dral'l oC I ii<lor side. 

Place the front part on the cloth in the most 
ccmvenient position, if the cloth is of a striped 
material, then the line K, F, should run parallel 
with the stripe on undei'side. 

Having this, then commence and extend the 
lines from front jiart to underside as at V and AV, 
X and Y. Sweep out to S — place the tape on O 
at liottom and draw a sweep line from to K, 
which is the line for length of under side at top. 

The Cutter should be very careful and not dis- 
place the front part after these lines are once 
drawn, otherwise those marks should be brushed 
out and a new start made— then it stands to rea- 



PLATE, XiV 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



35 



son should we displace the front from these lines 
we would draw the pants out of balance. 

We then begin at bottom, and apply the mea- 
sure, which is 17 inches. Measure from U to' J, 
(say 3J inches in this draft), luring the amount on 
U, and mark out to X one-half of bottom mea- 
sure, S^ inches, and make a mark. 

Now measure full width of front as from J to 
O, say 7 inches, bring the amount on X and aj)- 
ply fiill bottom measure, and one inch allowance 
for seams to Y. 

Next, apply the knee measure in the same 
manner — from *atT, U, line to V, (say 4^ inches) 
lu'ing the amount on * and mark one-half of knee 
measure out to Y, for under side. Now measure 
the whole width of front from V to W, place the 
amount on maik made for under side at V, and 
mark fidl knee measure with one iucli allowance 
for seams to W. The Cutter will see at once that 
all the allowance for seams are placed on the out- 
side of leg. 

Next mark out from N to S, one-eigth of seat, 
as before shown in proving the thigh measure. 
Having this point, then place the angle of square 
on E, let long arm rest on N, and di'aw a, line up 
to P — on this line mark, from E to P, one-fourth 
of waist, 3| inches. Now place the ruler on N, un- 
derneath the front part, let it also rest on P, and 
in that position draw a line down for centre seam 
of back, or seat line. Then draw O line, which 
is now taken otf by cutting out the front, up to 
under side — bring the tape on N, let the tape and 
chalk rest on top of said line as at 0, and sweep 
out to Q, which gives the length of Back. Hav- 
ing this, then mark out from to K, one-sixth of 
waist, or "ih inches, and make a mark. 

Now to prove the correct angle of under side, 
we api:)ly the Isalance measure as follows : Mea- 
sure from II to M, in a direct line, (say 14tV inches), 
bring the amount on S, let the tape come in the 
same shajie as ftn-k line of back, then up in a di 
rect line to R, full measure, 32 inches, and allow 
li inch more for seams. This, as we will tind, 
corresponds with the point as already established 
by waist measure. But in cases where a disjjro- 
portion will exist between these points, then take 
the centre, and make this the point R — providing 
the Cutter is certain tliat the balance measure is 
taken correctly. 

Now draw a straight line from R to Q, and 
shape the toj) of back as shown in Diagram. 
Next apj)ly the waist measure from L to M, bring 
the amount on Q, then in on top line to R, and 
allow 1^ inches for seams, and whatever the dif- 
ference may be fi-om this mark to R, take it out 
by a^^, as sho^\■n in Diagram. 



Next apply Seat measure, from C, to side seam 
of front, as at Z, which is the centre of A and 
B — bring the amount on back line at C, and mark 
out for side line ofundersideatZ, ^of seat, (18 in- 
ches), and allow 2 inches more for seams and ease, 
and make a mark. Note : The extra allowance 
must be according to the customer's wishes. If 
more ease is wanted make it \ or even 1 inch 
more, but in general practice 2 inches is sufficient. 

Next apply the Hip measure, bring the tape 
on front of tly in centre of C and L, let it run to 
side line of front in centre of toj) line and Z (say 
8^ inches), bring the amount on P, then in to side 
line of under side, in centre of RandZ, full meas- 
ure, 17 inches, and allow 2 inches for seam and 
ease. 

Having all these points, we are ready to finish 
the draft. Shape the fork line of back from 
centre of C and G out to S — from S down through 
V to X — give a little rounding below the knee so 
it will show the form of the leg. 

Then commence and draw the side line, from 
R through mark of Hip and Seat down through 
"W to Y — give a little rounding also below the 
knee as shown in Diagram. 

Now mark i inch ))elow X and Y, and tinish 
the bottom of under side by these points. 

Tlie next point is, bring the tape on * at knee 
line, and sweep in from A, to side line, which 
points must meet when the legs are joined. 

Having finislied all these points, then we are 
ready to cut the back part out— and, when cut, 
then notch all these points, V and W, also sweep 
line at A, top and under side, and our draft (Di- 
agram V), is finished. 

Tlie Eiecessary IiiKitruttio]! how to make 
tlieiii up. 

In regard to making up, pains must be taken 
by the tailor to stretch and shrinls. tlie different 
parts as they will need ; and then in joining the 
leg, care must be taken that all notclies will meet. 
It is certain that, should this be neglected by the 
tailor, it will produce a bad effect in tlie hang of 
the pants. Therefore too much care cannot be 
taken on these ix>ints. 

The first tiling which is necessary : Have the 
underside stretched from V to S, so they will cor- 
respond with the lengtli of front part. Now 
whatever the amount may be which we have to 
stretch on the inside seam between these points, 
the same amount must be stretched also on the 
outside seam from W, to sweep line at A. Then 
below the knee (say 5 inches below knee line) the 
underside should lie shrunk in, equal on both 
sides. 

Next, have the front stretched from bottom to 



36 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



Avithin 5 inches of knee line, of an equal amount 
on botli sides (say f inches more or less.) 

IS^ow -wiien joined, and the seams pressed out, 
then liave tlie legs folded so that K, F, line will 
form Uie crease in front, ;ind lune tliem pressed 
to the form of the leg. The back should lie 
sliiunk in from the knee np to fork line — below 
the knee they should form the calf of leg, and 
below this point the front should be brought out 
so it will form the necessary spring ou bottom of 



whatever amount the fashion may call for. The 
Cutter will tind that 1)y so doing all the loose 
clotli ill those places are taken away, and a nice 
sniooth-titting pants will be produced. We there- 
fore say once more, too much care cannot be 
taken l\v the tailor, to have the pants properly 
joined and pressed, because tlie graceful appear- 
ance of the pants when on the customer will de- 
pend in a great measure on the making up. 



Diagram W. 

SHOWING now TO PRODUCE A PAIR OF PANTS FOR A CORPULENT IMAN. 



This Diagram will show the whole working of 
the System. The changes wliich we find at point 
D and E are nuide according to the requirement 
of the form — otherwise the drafting is the same 
as in Diagram V. 

The piincipal part is here as in all othci- -cases — 
a corrcrf iiicasnri'iiwiif ; and if so, a good fitting- 
pants will be produced, which will giv-e satisfac- 
titm to both Customer and Cutter. 

The measures are taken in the same manner as 
show n in Figure 3, and as ])efore explained. 

We suppose now the figure will give tlu^ follow- 
ing nu.^asure : 

43 iuclies side length. 
44Jr " front '' 
31 " leg 

19 " bottom measure. 

20 " knee 
27 " thiuh 

44 " seat 
40 " hip 



46 
4()i 



waist 
l)alance 



Tlae Miaft, 

Di'aw a line on edge of materi;d — make a mark f 
inch below the top end of cloth and let this lie the 
starting point. Pring the tajie on this mark, and 
mark oft' side length, and \ inch more, to 0, 43^ 
inches — from 0, to A, leg measure and one seam, 
31i inches — A, to B, one-fourth seat — B, to C, 
one-half seat and \ inch, llj inches — from 0, to 
D, one-third of bottom measure — mark F, in cen- 
tre of O, and D — F, to J, one-fourth bottom. 
Ha\ing these points, then we must draw the con- 
struction line as from L to D — but before we can 
do so, we must consider that this class of men 
will need more openness of legs, than the so-called 
slim form, or in other words his feet Avheii in 
natural standing position will Ije more apart. It 
is therefore necessary that the amount is noticed 
when the measures are taken. AVe supjiose now 
that this figure will require l^ inches — take one- 
half t)f the amoinit, or f inches, and mark it out 
from D to D D, and we have the correct point by 



which we must draw our construction line — place 
the ruler on C and D 1), and draw a line from L 
through C, to l)ottom — transfer the side length, 
by placing the square on construction line, from 
O to J, same as in Diagram Y — also square out 
from C to B.. 

Next we must find point E. Now here we 
must make a change fr.jm the slim form — you 
will remember, that we have applied i Avaist from 
C to E, in Diagram \ — which is correct in all 
cases where the waist is less than seat. But here 
we have 2 inches more waist than seat, and there- 
fore we ax)ply one-fourth of waist, 5| inches, from 
B to E, and this point is established according to 
the ff)rm of body. We jiiust now say, that these 
two points are the only changes in the wliole 
draft from Diagram \, except the measures 
which l)ring the form. 

Place the ruler on E and F, anil draw a line 
from K, down. Next ajiply the leg and front 
measure — bring the ta}»e on D D, mark up 2i 
inches more than one-lialf leg to knee line, then 
to G, length of legs and one seam — then to L, 
length of front, and one seam, 44f inches, and 
make a mark — measure width of bottom as from 
O to J, take one-half and \ inch more, and bring 
this from O to U — mark centre of U and D D — 
bring the tape on this point, and sweep from G 
to S, and T. Mark out from G to II, one-eight 
of seat, and mark N in centre — then one-eight 
seat, from N to S, mark I, in centre — from I toT, 
one-third of seat. 

Now prove these points by thigh ineasuie, as 
before stated in Diagrams U and Y— draw a line 
from T to U — also from H to J — mark out from * 
to Y, one-fourth knee measure — then from A', 
one-half of knee and .V inch more for seams, to 
AY. 

Next apply oiie-fourrh of waist from K to M 
— also the same amount from K to L, and allow 
one seam — draw top line, from side length to 
mark made by front length, as from M to L. 

Having all these jioints, then ap]ily the hip 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



37 



measure, Avliich we iind is 1 iucli more than seat, 
and which shows that the belly is so much furth- 
er out at that jjoint of measure than at seat line. 
Now take this 1 inch and mark it out from con- 
struction line to fly as from '* to*, and we are pre- 
pared to finish the front — draw the fly line from 
L, through *, to H, from II, through V, to J — 
also a corresponding line for dress side as before 
shown. 

Then draw side line from M, through B, to A, 
through "\V, to bottom, as shown in Diagram \ , 
and cut the front out. 

TJie Kraft ©r I iMlorside. 

Place tlie fronts on the cloth in a position as 
economical as possible, and then extend the lines 
from front part as before stated in Diagram Y. 
Sweep out from j\I to R, by 0, at bottom. Hav- 
ing this, then ai)i>ly the bottom measure from U 
to J, bring the amount on U, and mark out to X, 
one-half bottom, ^\ inches ; then measure the 
full front, J to 0, bring this on X. and measure 
in to Y, full V)Ottom, and allow 1 inch more for 
seam. Then apply the knee measure from * at 
U T line to Y, in the same manner as bottom. 
Always bring the allowance for seams on the out- 
side line of leg. iSText mark out on sweep line at 
fork, from N to S, one-eighth of seat— bring an- 
gle of square on E, let arm rest on N, and draw a 
line up to P, which point is one-fourth of waist 
from E. Now draw a line from N, through P to 
Q. Mark out from to R, one-sixth of waist, or 



3| inches — bring the tape on N, and make a 
sweep from O to Q, — draw a straight line from R 
to Q, and shape the top of underside. 

Now the next thing must I)e to prove point R 
l)j' the balance measure, which is 40^ inches — 
apply the tape from H to M, then from S to R, 
full measure, and 1^ inches allowance for seams 
as before explained in Diagram \ . Next apply 
the hip measure from fly line in centre of C and 
L to side line of front, bring the amount on P, 
and then across to side line of under side as be- 
fore stated, and allow 2 inches more than one- 
half hip, 24f inches. Next apply the seat meas- 
ure from C to Z, in the same manner, and allow 2 
inches for seams and ease. 

Having this, then finish the under side, as in Di- 
agram Y, from centre of C and G, out to S — from 
S to Y, down to X, then from R, through mark 
of hip and seat to AY, and down to Y. Also iin- 
isli the bottom by \ inch below bottom line at X 
and Y. Sweep from A, by * at knee line, out to 
side seam of under side. Then apply the waist 
measure, L to M, then from Q to R, which we And 
is \\ inches more thaji one-half of waist and is 
the allowance needed for seams. This shows that 
the Y, which we have taken out in back of Dia- 
gram Y, is not needed in this draft. 

Now, as we have flnished our underside, cut 
it out and notch all these jioints Y, W, and A 
as before stated, and the draft of Diagram W is 
finished. 



PLATE 

Diagram 



XV. 
X. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CALLED BOW-LEGGED FORM. 



This class of men, when in natural j)osition will 
stand with heels close together, but from there 
the legs will si:)read apart, so that a space 
along the inside of legs will be seen, which is of 
more or less extent — but whatever it may be, we 
iind the largest amount between the knees. To 
meet the requirement of the form, and to provide 
a covering which will give full satisfaction to cut- 
ter and customer, it is necessary that certain 
changes have to be made in the draft, from the 
regular straight form of leg ; and these changes 
we intend to show in this Diagram. The mea- 
surement is the same as Figure 3. But as we in- 
tend to explain the whole, and by so doing make 
sure work, we must therefore add one more mea- 
sure, by which we ascertain the real amount 
which we have to apply in the draft. This mea- 
sure is very simple, but sure. Let the customer 
stand in natural position, with heels close to each 
other, then measure between the legs from knee 



to knee, (say 4 inches), and we have the true 
guide to draft by. 

We therefore say, that any other plan which 
the cutter may have, or that he may adopt with- 
out this measure, is only guesswork and un- 
certain. 

The measures we suppose are as follows : 
41 inches side length. 



41 


'• 


front " 


31 




leg 


17 




bottom measure. 


IS 




knee 


21 




thigh " 


86 




seat " 


33i 




hip " 


31 




waist ' ' 


32 




balance "' 


4 




.spread of knees. 
The Draft. 


Draw a 


line 


one inch from the edge of nuiterial 


which represents line, and square out to M, 



38 



THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



from tliis line to O, side lenu'tli and one seam 
— O to A, leg and one seam — A to B, one- 
fourth seat — B to 0, onedialf seat, and one seam 
— O to I), one-tliird bottom — F in centre of O and 
D — draA\' line from L, tlirongh C! to D — square 
out by this line from I) to O, and then draw line 
to J — also square from C to 13 — mark up from 
D, \ leg and 2i incli to knee line — then to G, 
length of leg and one seam — then to L, front 
length, and one seam — C to E, one-fourth waist — 
draw line from K, thiough E to P — F to J, one- 
fourtli bottom — measure from O to J. take one- 
half and \ inch more and bring it from O to U, — 
mark centre of U and D — bring tape on this mark, 
and sweej) out from G to S. and in to T — G to II, 
one-eight of seat, N in centre — from N to S, one- 
eight^of seat, I in centie — from I to T, one-third 
of seat — prove these points liy thigh measure as 
before stated — draw line from T to U — also draw 
knee line — mark one-fourth of waist from K to M 
— then from K to L, and allow one seam .at that 
point — then draw top line from L to M, to 0. 

Having all these points and lines; then comes 
the changes which we must make to meet the 
form of leg. The spread of knees is 4 Inches, 
which gives 2 inches for each side of leg. ■ Kow 
take these 2 inches, and a[)ply one-half or] inch, 
from T U line to 1, at knee, and make a mark — 
also the s.inie amount fi'om K F line in to 2, and 
make a mark. Having these points, then place 
the ruler on T, and 1, and draw a line to knee, 
then from 1 at knee to F, as shown by dark line. 
Next draw a line from K to 2, then from 2 to F. 
and we have these lines in harmony with the form 
of leg. Next apply the knee measure, take one- 
fourth, (4^ inches) and bring this out from 1 to V 
— from \ , mark in one-half of knee, and \ inch 
more for seams to W. Now, here we must 



say to the inexperienced Cutter, that by apply- 
ing one-half of the amount of spread to the front, 
the other ludf will be taken off by the under side 
or back. 

Having estalilished these points, we are ready 
to tiuLsh the front. Draw tly line from L to H, 
also from L to I — then from H, through V to X, 
as shown in Diagram. Next draAv side line from 
M, tlirough B, through "\^" to O. Also finish the 
l)ottom and the whole as .shown in Diagram, and 
cut the front out. 

The Mraft of I'lulep wade. 

Place the front on toj) of matei'ial — make a 
sweep by O, at bottom, from O, at top, to R — 
extend the lines at fork, knee and bottom — apply 
the liottom measure as shown in Diagram Y, and 
W. Also the knee measure, from ] to V, Ining 
the amount on 1 — and mark off one-half of knee 
to \ — then from V to AV, of front, bring the 
anumnt on V, and mark out full measure and one 
inch more for seains to AV — next place the angle 
of square on E, at dark line, let arm rest on N, 
and mark u]) to P, one-fourth of waist — bring 
ruler on N and P, and draw back line of under- 
side — sweep by N, from () to Q, — mark out from 
O to P, one-sixth of waist, and finish the top of 
back — then prove point R, by balance mea- 
sure, as before explained — apply hip and seat 
measure as before stated, and allow 2 inches more 
for seams and ease. Having all these points, 
then finish the draft by drawing a line out to 
S, from S to A", to X — then from R, through liip, 
and seat, to AV, and tlown to Y — mark \ inch be- 
low X and Y, and finish the bottom. Next 
apply the waist measure from L to M, then from 
Q ro R, allow li inches for seams, and the bal- 
ance take out bv a A' in back. 



Diagram Y. 

SHOWING THE DRAFT OF THE SO-CLVLLED KNOCK-KNEE STRFCTURES. 



This is a class of men whose legs will touch 
closely all along the thighs to the knee, but then 
(■((Uimence and spread gradually apart down to 
the feet, at which place we may find a space of 4 
to (■) inches, and in some cases even more. 

This shows to us that some certain (dianges 
from the regular straight-legged forms must be 
made ; but how these changes have to be made 
so that they will meet the requirement of the 



they need exactly the same shape of body and 
leg down to tlie knee, as (he straight form, but 
from the knee down they diflVr from each other 
— which proves that whatever change the form 
may need, it must be between knee and feet. It 
is now a clear fact, that a certain amount must be 
bi'oughtin from J, U, Fand O, at bottom. But 
the question may arise, what is the certain 
amount which will hold good in all cases. AVe 
form and prove satisfactory, is a question which answer, take a measure that will show you the 
we should not be too hasty to decide, and, es- disproportion of the feet, and then I will tell 
])ecially, not before we have fully investigated you the certain amount. Tlierefore, let the cus- 
the form. tomer stand in natural position with knees close 

Now, when we investigate the form, we find together, and when so, then measure from heel to 




PLATE, XV 



2 






)/^ 




THE CUTTER AND GUIDE. 



39 



heel, (say 4 inches)— and tlie certain amonnt 
whicli we must apply at these points is 1 inch. 
The measurement is as shown on Figure 3, say: 
42 inches side length. 



4U 




front '^ 


32 




leg " 


17 




Ixjttom measure. 


17 




knee 


22 




thigh 


38 




seat " 


34 




hip 


32 




waist •' 


32f 




balance '' 


4 




spread of heels. 



The Draft. 

All tlie main points are exactly the same as in 
Diagram \ — scpiare out to j\I — from this line to 
O, side length — to A, leg measure — A to B, 
one-fourth of seat — B to C, one-half seat and 
I inch added— to D, one-third bottom, F 
in centre — F to J, one-fourth of bottom — draw 
line by D, and C to L — square bottom by this 
line out to O — also out to B — measure 2\ in- 
ches more than one-half leg to V — full length 
of leg and \ inch to G — full front length to 
L — C to E, one-fourth of waist, and draw a 
line by F E, to K— one-half bottom and \ inch 
from O to U — - in centre of D and U — bring tape 
on * and s^v'eep out from G to S — mai-k fork 
points as before stated, G to II, one-eiglit seat, N 
in centre, from jV to S, one-eight, and mark cen- 
tre i)oint of fork — from this point mark one- 
third of seat to T — prove fcjrk points by thigh 
measure as befoi'e stated — from K to M, one- 
fourth waist, also one-fourth to L, and allow for 
one seam — draw top line from Lto M, to O — then 
from T to U — also from H to J. 

Having all these points, then we are prepa- 
red to cliange the bottom lines so they will 
meet with tlie form of leg. The measure we 
have talven is 4 inches, which gives 2 inches for 
each leg. Of these 2 inches, we apply one-half to 
the front, and by so doing, the other half is taken 
off from the Inick or underside. 

Nov.- take the one inch, mark it in from J to J 
2, also to U 2, F 2, and O 2, and we have the 
points wliich correspond witli the form — then 
draw lines fi-om knee down to these X)oints, as 
shown by dark lines, by wliicli we finish the l)ot- 
tom of front i)art. Having this, tlipu measure 
out from T V line, one-fourth of kn<:'e to V, and 
from this point one-half of knee to W, and idlow 
for seams — and we are ready to finish the front. 
Draw the lly line from L to H, and from H, shape 
inside line of leg through \, to J 2 — then from L 
to I, and down to V. Tlien from M, through B to 
A, through W to bottom at 2, as shown in Dia- 
gram. Also linisli bottom, and cut the front out. 



Draff I ncler shlc. 

Place the front on the cloth, sweep by O 2, 
from O to R, also extend the other lines from 
front across. Next apply the bottom measure- 
measure from U 2, to J 2, or inside line of front, 
bring the amount on U 2, and mark out to X, 
one-half of bottom, then apply the tape from J 2, 
to O 2, bring the amount on X, and measure to 
Y, full bottom, and alloAv 1 inch for seams. 

Next apply the knee measure, from T U line to 
V, bring the amount on this point again, and 
mark out to Y, one-half of knee measure— then 
from Y to side line of front, bring the amount on 
Y of underside, and mark out to W, full knee, 
and allow for seams. Now place the angle of 
square on E, let arm rest on N, and mark up to 
P, one-fourth of waist— draw back line from N, 
through P to Q— sweep by N, from O, to Q— 
mark out from O to R, one-sixth of waist. Then 
prove this point by balance measure, as before 
stated— apply the hip and seat measure, and al- 
low for seams and ease, as in Diagram Y. 

Having all these points, then shape the back 
down to S, from S to A', to bottom of X— also 
from R, through hip and seat to W, down to Y, 
in the manner as before shown. 

Now mark I inch below X and Y, and finish 
the bottom of underside, and all the rest as ex- 
plained in Diagram Y. 

The Cutter will find that we have drawn our 
l)ottcmi out on side line of leg just 2 inches, which 
the measure calls for. 

Now as the draft is hnished, then cut the back 
out, and notch all the points as before stated. 

Diagram Z. 

The Shape of Waisiband. 

It is not absolutely necessary tlmt the waist- 
band must be drafted as herein given— but we 
must sav, tliat if this plan is adopted, the Cutter 
will be i)leased with the result. Then by draw- 
inu- a curved line on bottom the top part will 
sin'ead more from the body, and therefore give 
more ease and comfort to the wearer. 

We therefore give a guide to the student, by 

wddch he may produce it. 

Draw a line from O to A— mark from A to B, 
waist measure, and allow one seam— mark down 
from B, one inch— then draw a curved line from 
A to B. Now mark up from A to C (say 2 inch- 
es)— then from D to E, same amount— then in 
back (say U inches)— and draw top line by these 

points. 

Now cut the waistband out, liave the parts 
made up as before stated, and the work is 
ENDED. 



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